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Bonnie Cashin Coat
I want to make this, but what's up with the sleeves?
MaryDB
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Date: 9/10/12 10:18 PM

I'm planning on making a car coat-length coat, based on this Bonnie Cashin suit jacket from 1964.

I have a pattern that will work perfectly with the front bodice seam slanted and cut on the bias, plus I have directions for a Cashin-style hood I will add.

But what the heck is with the sleeves? How would they fit an actual human body? I can leave them at plain kimono style, but still....they're intriguing.

wendyrb
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In reply to MaryDB <<


Date: 9/11/12 0:41 AM

As a long-time admirer of Bonnie Cashin, I'd love to see your progression with this project. The sleeves are intriguing. Why not try the shape in a muslin to see what happens. Could be the square angle falls at the elbow? Would be fun to find out.

Years ago, I got at a yard sale lucky and found an apple green leather coat of hers. In those days, $35 dollars was a lot for me, but I took the plunge. It had those metal toggle closures, a striped knit lining and 3/4 sleeves. Somehow it got lost in a multitude of moves.

Best of luck in making your car coat.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

jadamo00
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In reply to MaryDB <<


Date: 9/11/12 6:57 AM

Oh my gosh: it's an art piece. Stand-outing. I second Wendy's suggestion: try the sleeves in muslin: they might have a nice drape to them when they're relaxed at your sides.

But they certainly get the point across when you stand with arms akimbo!

koo104
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Date: 9/11/12 9:15 AM

There is a big mitered seam from the point of the shoulder to the underarm, Like you would do when wrapping binding around a square edge. You can play around with a piece of paper and tape to create the shape. Cut the 2X 10. The outer 2" are you sleeve opening. Miter fold each side so that the sleeve opening is 90 deg down. The area between is your upper body. You would then tape on a piece for the lower body. the join seam is curve for a pleasing empire shape. You would trim out the miter for sewing. Make sure to not sew over the seam allowances of miter for it won't lay right.

I hope this makes sense. Put on your origami paper folding hat for this project.
-- Edited on 9/11/12 9:31 AM --

mmcp
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Date: 9/11/12 9:36 AM

This may be helpful, you can really blow up the photo.

http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80005283#fullscreen

MaryDB
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Date: 9/11/12 10:32 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Yes, I definitely will be making a muslin for this one. I'm going to start with Butterick 3385, so I can play around with those sleeves a bit. If I don't like it, I can always just go to a regular kimono sleeve.

I wonder if the bottom part of the sleeve - I guess it's almost like a cuff - is also cut on the bias? Looks like it - thanks for the better picture, MMCP, that really helps. I have a similar plaid boucle.

Koo, yes, I think that underarm seam is going to be tricky, it's like a poncho almost. I'm not sure what you mean by trimming out the miter, but when I play around with it, it may come clear.

Elona
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In reply to MaryDB <<


Date: 9/11/12 2:14 PM

Quote:
But what the heck is with the sleeves? How would they fit an actual human body?


I suspect (hope?) that when you or the mannequin lower the arms, the pointy 'elbows' of the sleeve will just drape or point to the back, kind of like thick kimono sleeves.

Otherwise it would probably be the strangest 'velcro-butt' effect ever seen.
Baja Susana
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Date: 9/13/12 2:24 AM

Interesting jacket. But was it designed to be worn? I am not sure it was.
I love your Butterick pattern, and the price! I remember when my mother yelled at me for buying those " expensive" $5 Vogue patterns!

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Baja Susana
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solosmocker
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Date: 9/15/12 9:11 PM

Very interesting jacket. It looks to me like one rectangle makes the bodice front, back and the other opposing corners of the rectangle are the "elbow" of the sleeves. Then additional triangles of fabric are attached to complete the sleeve from wrist to elbow and also additional fabric for just the lower front and backs. It really looks pretty simple but quite intriguing, isn't it?

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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