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Knit vs. Stretch Woven
Increase seams?
Member since 2/12/06
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Date: 9/10/12 10:50 PM

I have a pants pattern that I make in a knit, usually ponte, which has easy 20% stretch. I want to try it in a stretch woven that has a much firmer 15% stretch.

I always work with 1" side seams for fitting. I'm wondering if I should add to the inseams for fitting. It would be easy to add and do a quick baste to check fit.


PeppermintPam  Friend of PR
Michigan USA
Member since 1/9/07
Posts: 350
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to simplystitches

Date: 9/11/12 1:53 PM

I watched a video by Peggy Sagers where she showed how to use her yoga pant pattern (which uses knits like ponte de roma), and adapt it to use woven fabrics instead.

She says to cut the waistband to the biggest size that should go over your hips and sew it together, then see if the waistband will go over your hips. If it does with plenty of ease, cut it to the next size smaller and sew it together and try it on again. Keep making the waistband the next smaller size until it will just fit over your hips.

Whatever size that waistband is, re-draw your original front and back pattern pieces using that new larger size at the side seam, starting at the waist, and use a french curve to go down to your 'usual' size at the hips. Also taper from the larger size to your 'usual' size at the center front seam, ending at the crotch curve.

Also, cut the horizontal waistline edge of the pants (where the waistband attaches) at your 'usual' size.

She said you do not need to make any other adjustments - not to the inseams or anywhere else. The pattern pieces sure look kind of weird, but she says they are comfortable and look fabulous.

I'm anxious to try this myself - let us know how it goes.
BTW, I have a migraine, so if any of this doesn't make sense let me know and I'll try to clarify.
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