SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > Bust Adjustment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Bust Adjustment
DebMurphy
DebMurphy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
RI USA
Member since 11/14/08
Posts: 21
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/12 9:07 PM

I have a question on bust adjustments. What is the difference between a prominent bust and a large bust adjustment found in Fitting & Pattern Alteration, A Multi-Method Approach (pg284-291). I use big four patterns size 14 for everything (length, bust, waist, hip) except neck & shoulders which I cut size 12. (I start the size 14 at the bottom of the armhole.) I do a forward head adjustment and sloping shoulders. I am a D cup. I have done the Fit for Real People FBA of 3/4" but maybe I'm not doing it right, because it seems like it makes the whole front to full, yet still rides up so the front is shorter than the back. And the bust darts are too high. Could it be just a issue of the dart placement?

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8196
Send Message

      



In reply to DebMurphy <<


Date: 9/13/12 9:37 PM

Part of it is the dart placement, an easy fix. It sounds like you need some more length over the bust. you might try rotating some or all of your bust dart to a vertical dart to make the fit better below the bust.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

unfinishedprojects
starstar
unfinishedprojects  Friend of PR
Advanced
AB CANADA
Member since 8/26/07
Posts: 591
Send Message

      



Date: 9/17/12 12:29 PM

The "large bust" adjustment adds width only. The "prominent bust" adjustment adds to the length as well as the width.

Compare your measurements to the pattern (there are several points of comparison listed in the newer edition of the book.) Basically, if the pattern's full bodice length, center front, and/or shoulder slope (shoulder to center waist) are too short, then you need the "prominent bust" alteration.

I really appreciate that this book differentiates between the two since I don't need any added length. The standard FBA adjustments almost always add length.

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4687
Send Message

      



Date: 9/17/12 1:30 PM

If your dart is too high, it can make the garment feel like it's riding up. Lower the dart after the fba, because the fba lowers the dart a little, and it's easier to fine tune after. Also double check your shoulders, a forward shoulder adjustment is one the more common ones and helps with riding up.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Bust Adjustment

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Register

10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro

Register

Butterick 5780

photo
by: Bonnie O

Review
Patrones Magazine 05-2012-23

photo
by: Merche

Review
Sew Liberated Huck Finn Cap

Sew Liberated Huck Finn Cap

Buy Now
Sewing Workshop Oasis Skirt Pattern

Sewing Workshop Oasis Skirt Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.