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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > question on amazing fit pattern

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question on amazing fit pattern
simplicity 2446 blazer question
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/15/12 5:29 PM

I just started on the simplicity 2446 blazer and have questions. It is one of those amazing fit patterns with all the adjustment stuff.

it starts by telling me to machine baste wrong sides together. I guess I've never had a pattern telling me to do that before. I'm fairly certain the fit will be fine and I'm more concerned about stitching and then taking that out - turning it right sides to right side and re-stitching.

it does call for the machine basting to use a 1" seam allowance. is that just for adjustment purposes but the actual seam will be 5/8 as usual. I can't seem to find that information on the pattern. this is the wording:
separate the shell along all machine-bastings. After stitching seams as instructed below, trim any excess seam allowances to within 5/8 of stitchings.

I interpret that to mean - keep the 1" s/a, but after the fact - trim away the excess to kind of 'reverse engineer' the 5/8" seam allowance.

I like the looks of this jacket but wasn't prepared for all of the 'sew, rip out, and re-sew stuff. I know some of you have made this pattern. Did you do all this or just skip it?

susie
ssarge@owc.net

solosmocker
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Date: 9/15/12 9:03 PM

I've have used several Amazing Fit patterns and been very happy with the results. These patterns are dedicated to getting the garment to fit you properly so there are often one inch seams instead of 5/8 seams. This is so you can fit yourself better. If the one inch seam works for you, fine, as it has been accounted for in the pattern design. Just follow the directions and cut it back to 5/8ths if it is too wide for you.

These patterns have lots more instructions and trial and error fitting steps but once you get the fit down on their usually classic designs, you've got a tried and true pattern that you can go to every time and it will fit great. Well worth the effort in my opinion.

Good luck with your jacket and just keep following the instructions.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

Marie367
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/16/12 9:24 PM

The Amazing fit patterns use 1" seams for adjustment purposes. This is in place of the standard 5/8. They give you more for fitting purposes. You might need the 1" or maybe a little more or a little less. I would sew on the wrong side like normal and adjust seams as needed. Basting is a good idea-much easier to rip out if you need to decrease the 1" to a lesser amount. I usually have fit issues with patterns so I expect to baste and rip out. If you seldom have issues, you are very fortunate!
I have not tried the jacket yet but it is on my list.
I always start with the recommended seam allowance for a pattern (the big 4 always use a 5/8" s/a and 1" for the amazing fit). However, sometimes I will need a deeper seam or a lesser seam. I take the seam allowances to mean "suggested" rather than a hard and fast rule. I would definitely trim the trim the seams down if you need the 1" and I would finish them even on the inside of a jacket. Please review when you are finished!

WTG
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/17/12 0:33 AM

You can skip the machine basting, ripping, and resewing if you are confident it will fit. I am on my 5th Amazing Fit pattern right now. The first time I used an Amazing Fit pattern, I did all the basting and fitting and ripping and resewing. It was valuable. I learned a lot and wrote down what I had to do to get a good fit. Now, on subsequent Amazing Fit patterns, I just sew using the exact same fitting changes. I skip the basting part. It works.

The actual seam isn't 5/8. It really is 1 inch. Your interpretation is correct.

FYI - The early printing of that jacket pattern had an error. I believe one of the A cup and one of the C cup pattern pieces were mislabeled. The C cup is really the A cup and the A cup is really the C cup. Corrected patterns have an R1 on page one of the pattern instructions near the top.

avatrx

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In reply to WTG <<


Date: 9/18/12 8:36 AM

I skipped the basting and ripping out, but to my surprise the jacket should have fit based on the measurements. I'll have to look and see if I have one of those patterns with the cup sizes reversed. I did end up reducing the side seams to 3/8 and the fit seems fine now.

BUT- I am having a miserable time with the collar. I've read the directions, I know I cut it out correctly - put the dots in all the right places, notches in the right places but I cannot - for the life of me - figure out how to attach the under collar without having it bunch up. There is a goofy dart on the front that they don't want you to sew until AFTER you attach sections of the under collar. I've pinned out the dart to see how well it will attach and it just does not fit. the notches line up as do the dots, but it just seems like there is something wrong. I"ve laid the pattern pieces over my fabric at least 5 times now to make sure I cut and traced properly - which I did.

There is a really good youtube video which is over 1 hour long wherein they demonstrate the making of a jacket which looks identical to this but they sew the lining first. They sew that pleat in before they attach the collar and they sew the under collar to the upper collar before adding it to the jacket.

I'm not really sure how to approach doing that with this pattern. It's very frustrating because I really like the style of this jacket. I just can't seem to get past the collar thing.

here is the youtube video link if you're interested: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jAySD4nzBY&list=FLbxObE7itd0fbuJ2x3UABnA&index=2&feature=plpp_video
any suggestions would be much appreciated. I really had hoped to get this done but for now it looks like I may have to move on to another pattern if I can't figure this out.

WTG
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/18/12 10:17 AM

Don't give up. Simplicity has great customer service. Email them or call them. The contact info is on the pattern. I've used it whenever I've been puzzled by a pattern or instructions and they always respond.

I'd help but I haven't made that jacket yet.

avatrx

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In reply to WTG <<


Date: 9/19/12 7:19 PM

I must be using a very old pattern. I looked on the instruction sheet from the pattern I'm using and there is no R1, however I had picked up a more recent copy of the same pattern when I saw it on sale for $.99. I just looked at that instruction sheet and it say R2! maybe that sheet will answer my questions.

I did contact Simplicity earlier today. They returned my call and walked me thru the collar thing. I don't know that I would have figured it out without their help.

Now I have another question. that being - on the sleeve it shows a 1" s/a, but only on one side. I don't know if the other side is the same or a standard 5/8. since (despite the sizing stated on the actual pattern) I had to reduce the s/a on the side to 3/8". I only did that on the side front to side back seam. BUT - depending on what the seams are on the sleeve - I will have to add that amount somewhere. (the 5/8" I let out the side seam.

It also seems to indicate that the lining is not sewn together first, but instead is sewn at the same time as the facings.

I guess I should go look at the newer pattern instructions and see if my answer lies in those pages as long as the actual pattern pieces are still the same?

What I would ideally like to do is sew the entire jacket and then sew the lining and put it in but I'm afraid I don't know how to do that. I think they call it bag lining. I had asked the gal at Simplicity if that would work and she did not think so.

thanks for the heads up on the revised pattern. Other than the bust sizing being off - I wonder what R-2 changes are different from mine or even the R-1 edition?

WTG
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Date: 9/20/12 10:33 AM

Every 1 inch seam is marked on the pattern. They say "1 inch seam allowance". If the pattern doesn't specify a seam allowance, then it is the standard 5/8 seam allowance. So, for your sleeve, check the pattern pieces to see if the seam allowance for that particular seam is 1 inch or 5/8. Since it is a 2 piece sleeve, one side may be 1 inch and the other side 5/8. If nothing is written by the seam, it is 5/8, for that side. If it is mean't to be 1 inch, it will say 1 inch.

To get your sleeve to fit your side seam, enlarge your sleeve at a 1 inch seam as it nears the armhole.

R2 suggests another correction. I don't know what it is. Am going to have to find out what the correction was before making this jacket. Thanks for posting about that.

avatrx

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In reply to WTG <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 9/20/12 11:45 AM

Marge at Simplicity is GREAT! She just returned my call and said the 1" seam allowance is only on the one side. Since I reduced the s/a on the side where side front and side back meet, I only need to do that on that one side of the sleeve.

I read thru both patterns and couldn't find a difference, but I didn't compare pattern pieces. I couldn't find anywhere that said what the revisions were on the instruction sheet.

I'll be happy to get this jacket done. hopefully later today. for now I have to get to work.

avatrx

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In reply to solosmocker <<


Date: 9/22/12 5:33 PM

I had to give up on this jacket. first - Imust have gotten the old pattern with the tissue switched for A and C cup because despite the fact that the pattern envelope had my exact measurements, the jacket was initially too tight. I let out the side seams to 3/8 and that worked. Then the sleeve, even with added length were too short. The shoulder seams were WAY too wide.

In general, I was very disappointed. I guess I had mistakenly thought that if my measurements equalled the pattern enveloped with a few exceptions (the back waist length which I made longer and the sleeve length) the jacket should have fit. It never occured to me that it had hugely broad shoulders.

I wasn't able to fit the shoulders at all and have scrapped the project. I did buy another copy of the pattern. This one is revision R2. I'm going to compare pattern tissue and see if I can figure out what went wrong, but for now - I wouldn't recommend this pattern to anyone that isn't very experienced at alterations.

I have no one around here that sews other than quilts and I don't know many of them. I just can't pin and adjust on myself. I don't own a dress form. Perhaps someone can recommend another pattern with similar styling that is unlined. Maybe I need to start there.
-- Edited on 9/22/12 5:36 PM --

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