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Forum > Beginner's Forum > inserting a full lining in to a sleeveless dress ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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inserting a full lining in to a sleeveless dress
has anyone else tried this?
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 9/20/12 3:54 PM

I'm making a sleeveless dress with a VERY full skirt. The first time I ever tried making a sleevless lined dress pattern (the lining was my idea so there werent any instructions) I slip stitched the lining round the sleeve holes by hand. Not my prettiest finish.

In later projects I have followed the instructions from a simplicity pattern which showed me how to pull the back lining pieces through the shoulder straps. But this only works if your lining is not too bulky.

Going back to my current project. One look at the huge skirt and I knew there was not a chance of it fitting through the shoulder straps.

So I hit upon the idea of sewing the front and back of both the dress and lining separately. I then sewed right sides together the lining to the corresponding fashion fabric at the neck line and armholes leaves the tops of the shoulder straps and the side seams open.

Trim stitched seams, under stitch and attach lining to already inserted zip. Then stitch fully lined pieces at shoulder straps only for the fashion fabric, slip stitch the lining at the shoulder straps. Stitch the side seams (where they only meet at the under arm).

It was so straight forward, even with all that bulk. Hopefully the above might be of help if you havent done this before. The finished looks is lovely, all understitched and neat. Unlike my hand sewing attempt!
-- Edited on 9/22/12 3:17 AM --

couturemom
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couturemom
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Date: 9/21/12 8:27 AM

Great idea. Good method for something that doesn't have a waist seam where you can attach the bodice seperately and then sew on the skirt lining.
Thanks!

AST
AST
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Date: 9/21/12 9:47 PM

I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing! I love to minimize hand stitching whenever possible.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/23/12 9:00 AM

It sounds like you've done a nice job. I use a similar method I learned from Threads magazine. I stitch the shoulder seams only, then attach the lining to the neck and armscyes and under stitch. Then you can pull the backs through the shoulders and stitch the side seams of bodice and lining all in one fell swoop.

Leaving the side seams until last allows you to fine tune the fit at the end too.

Of course sometimes you need to alter the construction method for the dress. Wrap fronts are alive trickier. For a big skirt like you describe, I would assemble bodice and bodice lining *before* attaching the skirt. Then you won't have to figure out how to get all that bulk through the shoulders.

Anyway, it sounds as if you did a nice job. There's always ore than one way to get the job done.

------
Melanie

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 9/26/12 7:27 PM

for those interested, the dress is now finished and pictures can be viewed here. I love the fact that having been able to understitch everywhere nothing peaks out where it shouldnt.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 9/27/12 8:24 AM

I am SO GLAD you posted the link with the photos of the finished dress! I've seen this pattern recommended here a lot, and the line drawings do nothing to show how cute and chic it is. But yours is beautiful!! Thanks not only for the tip, but for making me take a second look at a pattern I'd dismissed. :)

------
~Gem in the prairie

petro
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Date: 9/27/12 1:05 PM

I was taught this method - at least I think we are on the same page. The shoulders are left until the lining is in and then stitched, in the outer fashion fabric and a little way across the lining. How far you can get depends on the fabrics. You're working through a small space in the lining shoulder seam eventually. Then the space is closed - for example with slip stitching.

SecondHandRogue
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SecondHandRogue  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/14 11:13 PM

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I'm wondering if anyone had a photo link to either of these methods.

I'm sewing a fully lined sleeveless dress with a giant skirt...and I can't get my head around which seams to attach in which order, even though I'm pretty sure the invisible zip comes first.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to SecondHandRogue <<
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Date: 6/2/14 1:16 PM

if you send me a message am happy to try and help out with giving a more detailed explanation of my original post. The basics of the idea is that you complete the back (lining and fashion fabric) including the zip so everything is done but the hemming. Ditto for the front.

Sew the lining back to the fashion fabric back, which makes it also very easy to attach to the zip. Again, same for the front. But you are leaving the shoulder straps OPEN. Under stitch the whole lot.

You should then have one finished back, and one finished front. Carefully stitch the should straps together for the fashion fabric. Finish by hand (slip stitch) the lining at the straps. Sew up the side seams - and done!

SecondHandRogue
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 6/2/14 1:21 PM

You are still here! Thanks for coming back to this!

I am hoping to try to get my brain around this for a few hours, if I'm still struggling I'll be back with questions:)

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