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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Help! Back yoke longer than front--why? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help! Back yoke longer than front--why?
Need to make alteration decision
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 9/20/12 9:29 PM

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'm making myself a peasant blouse from Simplicity 4059:



Per the suggestions/conversation in that earlier thread, I'm lengthening the front yoke for better coverage (it hits me mid-chest, and I'd like it to cover the bust). But the back yoke is already 2" longer than the front yoke. Why is this? And when I lengthen the front, should I also lengthen the back?

(As simple as that sounds--adding an extra couple inches to the front yoke--it was actually ridiculously confusing, because the gathered lower portion of the shirt forms part of the armscye, and I had a bear of a time figuring out what to do about that. Finally just re-drew all the pattern pieces as they'd look when sewn together, and that worked brilliantly. Whew! But now I don't know what to do about the back yoke length.)

Help?

Thanks!!

------
~Gem in the prairie

cocosloft
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cocosloft  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/21/12 1:28 PM

Fit your tissue first. Does it still fit with a longer bodice and the longer back? any changes you make should be made to your entire pattern, perhaps your back yoke will fit better if you change it as well. You can try this out by making a new tracing and fitting the new pieces. No need to do it on your fabric until you are sure!

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Coco

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/22/12 7:20 AM

Did you actually lengthen the front or just move the seam down?

Can you tell if the back and front yokes are supposed the match at the side seam? Sometimes they don't.

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

jannw
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 9/22/12 8:17 AM

You might check to see where the back yoke ends on you. I've found that some with gathers end exactly where my back starts to round so the gathers stick straight out.

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 9/22/12 7:08 PM

Thanks, everyone!

JEF--great point! The front and back yokes are sewn together only at the shoulders; where the "side seams" would normally be, is actually armscye. So I suppose if they don't actually connect, they wouldn't need to be the same length.

At any rate, I lengthened them both the same, and the muslin fits well so far (altho' DH has suggested making it even an inch longer).

The depressing part was that as I was explaining what I had done to DH (not a sewer or with any knowledge of flat pattern construction, but with the normal person's ability to comprehend spatial relations! :/), he took one cursory look at it and said, "Why don't you just move the yoke seam down so that you bypass the armscye altogether?" (Except he said that w/o the technical terms, of course.) AND THAT TOOK ME ALL DAY AND THREE MUSLINS TO FIGURE OUT! GAH!!!

Sigh. :)

------
~Gem in the prairie

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