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Ponte knit skirt
hem affecting drape of skirt
EAMund
EAMund
Member since 1/11/09
Posts: 13
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Date: 9/23/12 5:32 PM

I am making the skirt of Simplicity 4074. It is a 6 gore, trumpet shaped pullon knit skirt. I am using a ponte knit fabric and it is the first time I have used this. I was really happy with the way the skirt was when I tried it on unhemmed as it draped nice, and was shall I say, "swishy" around my knees.

Once hemmed the skirt lost its swish factor and I am not liking it. Any ideas how I might go about fixing this?

Things to note:

I sewed and finished the seam allowances by trimming to 3/8" and zigzagged them together, pressed to one side.

The hem allowance on the pattern is 1 1/4" deep, which is what I did

I finished the hem by zigzag (not turning under 1/4").

So, should I have pressed my seam allowances open, or would making the hem depth less be better, or do store bought clothing lines really leave some hems not finished (can I really stand to do that?) ?.

I would really appreciate some advice on getting the drape back in my skirt so I can actually enjoy wearing it. I am a new mom and have limited brain energy at the moment so I am using everyone elses knowledge. Thanks so much in advance.
Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Ohio USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 5759
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In reply to EAMund

Date: 9/23/12 6:45 PM

Sounds like a cute skirt. I think it is the way you hemmed it. This skirt has a bias hemline-very stretchy. You want to keep the stretchy without stretching it (if that makes sense). I would have serged the seams to 1/4" inch but I don't think your 3/8" was a factor although that fabric is a bit thick so it might help. I think the zigzag was a good idea on the hem edge was a good idea. How did you stitch the hem? I think the 1 1/4" hem is a bit wide for a bias skirt. I usually hand sew a bias hem. I think a narrow hem is usually better. I have several RTW knit skirts. They are hemmed 1/4" with a straight stitch. Yes, I have seen RTW hems unfinished-that drives me nuts and I might do it on a maxi but probably not on a knee length skirt.
simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 9/23/12 8:21 PM

I think the weight of the hem is affecting the swish factor. I would try reducing the hem depth. 3/8" would probably give you back the swish.

Debbie
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Date: 9/23/12 10:49 PM

I agree with previous posters on narrowing the hem. If that doesn't get you to your preferred swishiness maybe no hemming with either a raw edge or soft decorative trim could be an option.

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EAMund
EAMund
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Date: 9/24/12 8:32 PM

Thanks for the responses! I will get my seam ripper handy and try reducing the hem depth. Hopefully that will be the key.
Irene

Irene  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/25/12 12:54 PM

Perhaps lengthening your zig zag stitch would help. Shorter stitch = more thread = stiffer hem with less "flop" factor.
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