Pennsylvania USA Member since 3/27/07 Posts: 1654 Skill: Intermediate
Date: 9/24/12 9:00 PM
I'm just wondering if I've been cutting out the wrong size for sleeves. When sewing a tailored blouse, for example, I cut out a 10 for the shoulders, tapering down to a 12 for the bust and out to a 16 for the hips. On the back I cut clear out to an 18 at the armholes for my wide back. This is I think where I run in to problems. When cutting out the sleeves, I've been cutting out to an 18 for the back (double notched) and a 12 (single notch) for my sleeves. What size then do you cut for the sleeve cap? I cut a size 10 there. I did this just the other day for a blouse with bust darts and long sleeves and everything fit great till I sewed the sleeves in and it pulled in the bicep area. The darts were perfect, the armholes not too low. It would have made a great sleeveless top! And also the sides would tend to hike up when I'd lift my arms up a little. Has anyone run into this?
tinflutterby California USA Member since 8/9/11 Posts: 307 Skill: Advanced
Date: 9/25/12 3:05 AM
I would think it would be easier to add the width in at the shoulders with a broad back adjustment and cut the armhole the same size all the way around but maybe there is something I'm not seeing.
Halley, I'm glad you brought this up. I have just cut out a top: 10 at the shoulders and neck, morphing to a 12 at the bust and back. Now for the sleeves! Do I cut a 10 at the top of the cap and a 12 the rest of the way? I have no idea. I have just been cutting a 12 all over for the sleeves in the past, but am finding I have way too much cap ease. This is why I'm thinking I need to do a 10 at the top. Hope someone can give you the answer you are looking for
I have narrow shoulders in front so a 10 in that area fits me well. I think when I cut a size 10 for the sleeve cap that with me having big biceps that it's too tight in that area. If I cut a size 12 for the bust than I was cutting a size 12 for the front part of the sleeve and so on but I've been doing this method thinking that then the notches match up. But with going out as far as a size 18 for the back and then an 18 at the sleeve I'm thinking maybe it's throwing the armhole shape off big time. I need the minimum of 15=1/2 inches across for my biceps.
And since from shoulder to apex I am 10-1/2 inches I didn't do a petite adjustment. I'm just wondering if that is apart of my problem too. -- Edited on 9/25/12 1:44 PM --
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