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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Convert knit to woven - B5780 ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Convert knit to woven - B5780
ALTmentalities
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ALTmentalities
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Date: 9/28/12 8:41 PM

I recently acquired 4.5 yards of a green corduroy that is surprisingly lightweight -- I think it wants to be a dress. In fact, I think it wants to be B5780! Only one problem: this pattern is made for "Rayon Spandex or Cotton Spandex."

What advice can you lovely ladies give me about converting this knit pattern into a woven? Do these style lines work for such a thing? I have never sewn a Butterick pattern before but typically am a size 8 in McCalls (they run about the same, yes?) so I assume I would maybe want to cut a size or 2 bigger than that and perhaps add more to the side seams...? Or...?

I looked at the Butterick ease chart online. The pattern is "close-fitting" in the bust so that's 0-2 and 7/8" ease, and then "fitting" in the hips so 3-4."

I had thought about simply cutting the fabric on the bias. Would that work? I think I have enough fabric to do it, although there are a couple pattern pieces where I'm a bit confused about the grainline... In general this pattern is noted for its sparseness of directions and information.

I am ready and willing to make a muslin if required.

Oh please share your sewing wisdom!

Speech girl
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In reply to ALTmentalities <<


Date: 9/29/12 0:50 AM

One thing to consider is that corduroy has wales which will be diagonal if you cut it on the bias. That may not be visually what you would like. Maybe some of the PR members out there know of a dress similar in style for wovens.

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jacquiJB
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Date: 9/29/12 1:32 AM

I'm not sure how well your pattern will convert from knit to woven and, if I were you, I'd look for another pattern. One with similar lines is now out-of-print Vogue 1121, a Badgley Mischka dress. It doesn't have the tucks at the waistline, but is otherwise quite similar. A quick search shows the pattern's available on Etsy; I'm sure it can be found on ebay as well.

Not sure whether this helps or not, but I hope so! :)

Elona
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In reply to ALTmentalities <<


Date: 9/29/12 2:56 AM

Patterns for knits are cut with little to no ease; they depend heavily on the stretch of a knit to go around the body's contours. For this reason, they cannot be used with woven fabrics, which have no built-in stretch. And unless you are experienced with both pattern drafting and fitting, it will be very discouraging to try to redesign or adapt a knit a pattern for woven fabrics.

My best advice to you would be to try to find a similar pattern designed for wovens. But of course you can make a muslin of woven fabric and see if you can fit it to yourself. It could be very instructive.

beauturbo
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Date: 9/29/12 3:30 AM

I think some made for knits patterns could be used maybe cut in a larger size and tweaked for a woven, especially maybe one of the stretchy wovens with a lot of Lycra/Spandex in it, but I think that one has not got a lot going for it there for that if in a non stretchy corduroy. I've made corduroy skirts on the bias before and that is good, but when you got it on the bias, then you also got it with nap, and if you don't have the fuzzy nap going the way you want, and you look at it from a distance, then there is a color change where that happens too. So not saying that you just could not make it work somehow, but if I really liked my green cordoroy, I think I would save it for another pattern instead.

I think if you had some matching green knit for the top of the dress and wanted to then instead try to combine it with the green corduroy, maybe on the bias for just the skirt portion of the dress, and if the back of the dress also had a slit in it, togive some extra room to walk with, that kind of combination, even though not all knit at that point, might have a lot better chance of maybe working out.

ALTmentalities
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Date: 9/29/12 7:38 AM

Thanks for all the feedback and ideas, ladies! I guess the best thing is to save my green corduroy for another day and just find a ponte knit or something to make this dress. Although I also really liked the idea of mixing and matching -- knit for the top and corduroy for the bottom.

couturemom
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Date: 10/1/12 1:40 PM

The structure of the butterick pattern is quite basic. You can use a woven pattern for the back (just a darted skirt and bodice). Same for sleeves. Then compare the pattern for woven fabrics (assuming it fits you) to the butterick pattern.
You can then re-draft the front bodice pattern accordingly, depending on how much you need to add. It's been my experience that sometimes the patterns designed for knit fabrics still have a lot of excess ease, so just cutting a larger size may work well - I would definitely do a muslin, though!

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