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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Kwik Sew question on pattern sizing

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Kwik Sew question on pattern sizing
how to adjust between smaller and larger on XL
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/29/12 10:18 AM

I like Kwik Sew patterns, but I don't like the sizing on them. it gives ranges of measurements for each section. When you fall in between the measurements listed, how do you adjust?
bust is 43-35 on XL. I'm 43. The large size is 40-41-1/2 which is too small.

I seem to be in between the large and xlarge. since the pattern lines only have L and XL on them - I'm not quite sure how to achieve my goal?

should I just take a larger seam allowance or will that throw off the pattern? maybe I should just make it bigger and resolve to wear something heavy under it lol

Kwik Sew 2926. a discontinued pattern which I found on EBAY.

thanks,
-susie
-- Edited on 9/29/12 10:21 AM --

SquishSews
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Date: 9/29/12 10:24 AM

Does that pattern give a finished measurement for the bust? You could go on that (using your bust measurement + 1"-3" of ease)... otherwise, I would try drawing between the two pattern lines, and cutting it in cheap fabric to test first. Others will know much more, but that's what I've learned so far.

Good luck and post how it goes!

SquishSews
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Date: 9/29/12 10:26 AM

Oh! I just remembered too - if the finished garment sizes are not listed... You can measure across the bust line of the pattern pieces (excluding the seam allowances) and sum them up to see what the true size is...

avatrx

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In reply to SquishSews <<


Date: 9/29/12 10:29 AM

good question. I'll have to take a closer look. I know I made up a knit top from Kwik Sew last spring in XL. The fit was OK for the most part, but the shoulders were to big on me. It wasn't a fitted top so I didn't have to be too precise. This IS more fitted.

I'll post back after I scour the pattern for more info.

thanks!

SquishSews
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/29/12 10:35 AM

There's also a review here that may be helpful... http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/11354

Lindy Ann
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/29/12 10:46 AM

My experience: I made a Kwik Sew skirt not too long ago. It was an odd design, made of several diagonal pieces of fabric. The finished garment measurements were not listed anywhere. It was almost impossible to measure on the pattern because the multiple pieces joined at odd angles-- no side seams.

The sizing gives a range, something like 39 to 41 inches in the hip for M and 43 to 45 for L. What do you do if you are a 42? --So I'm 41.5 inches. I made the M size, and it's too small for me, with no way to alter it. My conclusion was, I should choose the larger size whenever my measurements are at the top end of the range or a little beyond.

A top has other issues. You might want the smaller size and a FBA.

avatrx

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In reply to Lindy Ann <<


Date: 9/29/12 11:12 AM

I looked on the pattern and it does give the finished bust sizes. The XL is 48.5. That would probably be OK. That gives me enough ease to move. The large size is 45.5. So it looks like I'll have to use the XL. It is a paneled jacket so it's hard to measure.

BUT? The shoulder seams will most likely need adjusting. What is the best way to do that? should I measure one of my RTW jackets that fit well in the shoulders and measure the pattern by those? Can I just adjust the shoulder seams without adjusting anything else or does that goof up the armhole?

The shoulder seam on my RTW jeacket measures about 5". The XL from collar to sleeve measures 5-3/4. The large is about 5-1/2.

I really don't know how to do this. I could live with the 5-1/2 but how do I draw it and WHERE do I draw it?

AS for the bust on the pattern? There is no marking indicating where it is. I've have looked and looked and there just isn't a marking.........

avatrx

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In reply to Lindy Ann <<


Date: 9/29/12 11:14 AM

I see the FBA instructions everywhere, but I'm just really fuzzy on how to do them.

SquishSews
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/29/12 11:23 AM

So onthe XL you'd have 5 1/2" of ease f your bust is 43"... seems like a lot! You'd have 2 1/2" of ease in the L; I think I personally would lean more towards tracing the L a smidge bigger, myself.

http://www.simplicity.com/t-sewing-how-to-tailor-fit-jackets.aspx#rightamount
Indicates that a blazer will generally have about 3" of ease?

Marie367
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 9/29/12 1:33 PM

I am between sizes too. I have tried the larger seam allowance-on simple garments that works. I am strangely sized-my neck and shoulder width is smaller than across my chest/across my back. What if you mix sizes-smaller where you need smaller and larger where you need larger. Then do a quick muslin to see if you are on track. That seems to work better for me on most things than trying to adjust while I am putting it together.

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