Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Shawl collar question ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Shawl collar question
I never get it right...
AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2452
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/6/12 7:02 PM

I am struggling with a vest that has a shawl collar. When I get to the point where you are suppos to piviot I end up with something that looks like gathers or a tiny pleat.
Anybody have a good tip on sewing this?

------
Ada

PattyE
starstar
PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI
Member since 9/7/10
Posts: 1318
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/6/12 8:04 PM

What pattern are you working on?

marjoriekh
star
marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/7/12 10:01 AM

Ada, I agree, this is a very tricky spot. I have a TNT shawl collar dress, and this part always makes me nervous. I always baste the seam first, check for puckers from the right side, then stitch. Even then I sometimes rip out the first try.

Have you stabilized the seamline? I find that if I use strips of lightweight fusible interfacing (or, in my case, knit tape, as it's a pattern for knits) along the whole seamline, and especially at the pivot point (make sure there is no break in the stabilizer there, and that it extends 1/2 an inch or so in all directions around the pivot point) this is a big help.

Since my knit tape is very lightweight, I can stabilize both the upper collar and undercollar pieces without really adding bulk.

------
marjoriekh

marec
starstarstarstar
marec  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 5/11/08
Posts: 3991
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/7/12 11:28 AM

Maybe this will help: I pinned it awhile back because this is hard for me also

shawl collar

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2452
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/7/12 12:13 PM

I am making myself finish UFO's so V8777 was next in line.


I did interface the edges, both pieces. I did mark the intersection where you turn the corner. I basted. I still have a messy corner.

Pictures to follow.

The fabric is pleather (sp).
Should I just call it a wadder and move on to the next UFO or should I take it apart and try again? Maybe with more interfacing?


-- Edited on 10/7/12 12:34 PM --
ps I already clipped the corner. Why did I do that when I knew it was a mess?
I might be more of an optimist than I think I am
-- Edited on 10/7/12 12:37 PM --

------
Ada

PattyE
starstar
PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI
Member since 9/7/10
Posts: 1318
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/7/12 3:02 PM

I have found that when I raise the presser foot to pivot, I usually need to make sure I push any excess fabric to the back before I lower the presser foot and continue sewing. It will eliminate ending up with a pleat or tuck at the point. I know that probably sounds clear as mud but I'm not sure how else to explain it.
Do you think your pleather is feeding uniformly? Or could it have gotten a little stretched in that area?

mastdenman
star
mastdenman  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 1/12/04
Posts: 6043
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/7/12 4:19 PM

First I mark my seam allowances on both pieces with chalk for something similar that can be easily removed.

Stay stitch around the corner and clip within a couple of threads of the corner.
Pin the corners together.
When you sew up to the corner, stop with the needle down.
Lift the presser foot.
Rotate the fabric around to the other direction.
This will involve making a pleat in the piece with the right turn on the inside. Put the excess fabric out of the way.
Put the presser foot down and continue sewing.

When you pull it apart and press, the fabric should be flat.

The reason I mark the seam allowances is because I have difficulty keeping track of exactly where the corners are and where I should be turning.
-- Edited on 10/7/12 4:22 PM --

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

Jane S
star
Jane S
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 287
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/7/12 6:59 PM

I'm going on a vague memory to explain this. Susan Khalje had us stay stitch not just the right angle of this corner but actually stitch past the angle in both directions. That way you could clip into that corner and really treat each edge as part of the joining seam. (Even I can hardly understand what I'm trying to describe, sorry.)
Personally, this is an area where I frequently hand stitch for an inch on either side. I like the control of a hand needle and lining up those edges perfectly. Then I machne sew the rest of both seams up to the handstitching. A small back sticth will not come undone and the collar area is neater and flatter that way.

------
www.luckysewandsew.blogspot.com

marjoriekh
star
marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Jane S <<


Date: 10/8/12 10:16 AM

I like this idea of hand-stitching, which, amazingly, hadn't occurred to me. I'm trying that next time. Thanks!

------
marjoriekh

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2452
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/9/12 7:16 PM

I ended up doing the hand stitching. It worked really well.

------
Ada

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Shawl collar question

Merchants on PR
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Online Sewing Classes
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro

Loes Hinse Designs 5003 Cruise Pant
photo
Review by Nancywin on 2/24/10
Read Review

McCalls 5797 Pattern ( Size 3-4-5-6 )
McCalls 5797 Pattern ( Size 3-4-5-6 )

Details
Price: $11.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3607 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3607 Pattern

Details
Price: $10.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Elizabeth Lee Sunrise Designs 302
photo
Review by JenSews2 on 6/13/06
Read Review

Sis Boom Marlo Top Digital Pattern
Sis Boom Marlo Top Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $10.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Megan Nielsen Tania Culottes Digital Pattern
Megan Nielsen Tania Culottes Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $12.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Acrylic Base In 5 Sizes
Acrylic Base In 5 Sizes

Details
Price: $9.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

You Sew Girl Evening Bag Pattern
You Sew Girl Evening Bag Pattern

Details
Price: $17.65
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN