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Exposed Zipper
Problems sewing an exposed zipper in a dress
LizSabo
LizSabo
Intermediate
Member since 4/5/11
Posts: 15
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Date: 10/17/12 4:55 PM

Help, please! This exposed zipper is making me crazy!

I'm working on Vogue pattern 1151 which seemed simply enough, even though I have never sewn an exposed zipper before. So much for that hope.

The pattern directions were fairly inadequate. I did manage to get the gist of what the pattern is asking me to do through online tutorials (staystitch area around zipper, clip to corner, fold back allowance and triangles, sew zipper). But all of my tests end up leaving a mess of the corners. Here's a link to one tutorial so you can see the steps I was taking, though my zipper is going to be sewn to the inside of the dress, not the outside. Exposed Zipper Tutorial

Does anyone have any advice on how I can get a neat look exposed zipper? I don't want pulling corners, and I'm about ready to just go and buy an invisible zipper and call myself defeated.

Thanks so much!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 594
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Date: 10/17/12 5:21 PM

If corners are pulling, it means you haven't clipped deep enough into them. Make sure you interface the zip insertion area, so when you clip into corners they won't fray out

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Noelle Mac
Noelle Mac
Massachusetts USA
Member since 3/16/09
Posts: 55
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Date: 10/17/12 5:26 PM

Hello LizSabo
We just launched a new video from Angela Wolf on exposed zippers, so your question is very timely!
She has really amazing detailed instructions for a series of tricks for using exposed zippers- this might be a help to you. Here is the link:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/index.pl#517

Nancy K
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Nancy K
Advanced
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8371
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In reply to LizSabo <<


Date: 10/17/12 5:28 PM

You need to use a light weight facing. It's a little trickier to do this in a seam than it is to do it elsewhere in a garment. This is a terrific tutorial from Tany. I've used it and it works like a charm.
tutoirals
Scroll down to zippers and look at the exposed zippers for sleeves.
As Tany does, make sure that you use some interfacing around the opening.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

LizSabo
LizSabo
Intermediate
Member since 4/5/11
Posts: 15
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 10/17/12 7:26 PM

Thanks Nancy! That tutorial is great, so easy to follow. I saw another tutorial with a facing, but it was for a pattern that didn't have a seam. And I wasn't exactly sure on how to adapt it.

Thanks again!

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