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Forum > Fitting Woes > princess seams ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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princess seams
where does the seam supposed to be?
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/20/12 6:12 PM

I'm just doing a muslin of a top with an armhole princess seam. The picture shows the seam to the side of the bust....not at the apex. How far from the apex is the seam supposed to be?
Nancy K
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In reply to halleyscomet
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Date: 10/20/12 6:28 PM

Is it a princess seam or a side panel? A princess seam runs over the apex or more flatteringly a 1/4" to the side. If it is considerably more than that I'd think that it was a side panel and not a princess seam.

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halleyscomet
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In reply to Nancy K

Date: 10/21/12 9:47 AM

There's a front and side front so I guess you would say it is a side panel.
Lizz
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Date: 10/21/12 2:39 PM

A princess seam from the shoulder runs over the apex of the bust. A princess seam from the armhole runs 1/4" from the apex. A side panel does not NECESSARILY use the princess seam for darting purposes. This is just FYI and doesn't really address your question. :):):)

In your case, the seam should be as close to 1/4" to the armhole side of the bust apex.

Happy Sewing! Lizz
waikikimum
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waikikimum
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Date: 10/22/12 1:49 AM

I always thought a princess seam had to go over the apex. Recently I was watching one of Peggy Sager's webcasts and she said the princess seam can go anywhere in the bust circle.
I think from memory the bust circle is a 3 inch radius around the bust point. Hopefully someone will come along and comment if I have the measurement incorrect.

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Kathy
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PeppermintPam
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In reply to waikikimum

Date: 10/22/12 8:57 AM

Yes, I watched her webcast also, and you are right about the measurement. She said it's actually more flattering for the seam to go to the side of the bust apex and not directly over it.

In her webcast about 'sewing myths' she said it's actually a myth that the seam has to go over the apex. I never knew that before either.
Pj3g
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In reply to halleyscomet

Date: 10/22/12 2:29 PM

Here is Peggy Sager's webcast which was mentioned by others. Fast forward to 44 minutes and that's where she talks about princess seams going through the bust circle. And yes, it's a princess seam whether the seam starts in the armhole, shoulder, neckline or centerfront.

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Thank you Lord for my mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my father and husband who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

halleyscomet
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In reply to Pj3g

Date: 10/22/12 2:45 PM

Vogue 8689 was the top that I was working on. It said it was a princess seam top but from the picture it didn't look like the seam ran through the apex but off to the side. I was tissue fitting and was having a heckuva time getting the front to look right. I didn't know how far off to the side the seam was actually supposed to be. I got frustrated and went onto something else.
Miss Fairchild
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Date: 10/23/12 0:33 AM

The seam shouldn't go any farther over than 1.5 inches from your bust point. (1.5 being half of 3") I've watched Peggy Sagers' webcasts too, and change comes hard for this old dog...er, dinosaur.

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