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Message Board > Plus Size Sewing > Petite Plus Size Sewing Adjustments ( Moderated by JEF)

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Petite Plus Size Sewing Adjustments
What are some Good Books for Pattern Adjustments Are...
Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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Date: 10/23/12 11:25 AM

Am taking (finally) a course on adjusting RTW patterns.

Problem is I am 5'3" and need to make additional adjustments in addition to the dreaded FBA, full thighs and so forth. The teacher does not intend to cover much on this in my course.

I recall reading somewhere on PR about some TNT books. I think this book by Kathleen Cheetham was one.

Is this book just mainly patterns or does she also explain some of the additional adjustments that need to be made for plus sized petites? That would be perfect IMHO.

I know there are some good books out there for adjustments in general. Can you recomemd any books for pattern adjustments for the short, "very curvy" gal?

Thanks so much for any recommendations.



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Forgiveness does not excuse the behaviour. It prevents the behaviour from breaking your heart over and over again.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/23/12 12:41 PM

Threads magazine has an article (in #142, but also available on their website) called Full and Fabulous, which I thought was pretty good.

sewme47
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sewme47
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Date: 10/23/12 1:29 PM

I have Kathleen Cheetham's book, and it does contain fitting information, but there is not a whole lot of difference between her information and what is contained in other fitting books. I think Petite Plus packaged patterns are much more flattering than most of the patterns in the book.

Keep in mind that her patterns, book, and fitting info are geared more for "apple" figure types, as opposed to "pear" or "banana" figures. But you can make them work with adjustments. I'm a pear, and her Shapely Blouse (envelope pattern) worked well for me after alterations at the shoulders and waist.

I learned a lot about fitting from the Palmer/Pletsch DVDs--they're all excellent an dmuch better organized the their classic Fit For Real People book.

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Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewme47 <<


Date: 10/23/12 1:34 PM

Quote: sewme47
I learned a lot about fitting from the Palmer/Pletsch DVDs--they're all excellent and much better organized the their classic Fit For Real People book.

Maybe I'll check those out, then. I found FFRP to be overwhelming and unhelpful as a result.
Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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In reply to sewme47 <<


Date: 10/23/12 3:57 PM

Quote: sewme47
Keep in mind that her patterns, book, and fitting info are geared more for "apple" figure types, as opposed to "pear" or "banana" figures. But you can make them work with adjustments. ......

I learned a lot about fitting from the Palmer/Pletsch DVDs--they're all excellent and much better organized the their classic Fit For Real People book.

That is good info... I am definately more pear shaped... and want to learn how to deal with that.

As an aside, the FBA taught in this class I have never seen.

You basically split the peice into 4 quadrants. Slice from the middle of the side dart to nearly center front. Then you slice up through the apex point to nearly the shoulder seam line from the bottom dart (or straight down from the appex point).

Yep... the two bottom peices are no longer attached!! So if you want to try this method, you might be wise to draw in some parallel lines to make sure you line them up right when you are done your spread.

I have not tried it yet so stay tuned.

The reference book she uses is Readers Digest. Not sure which edition. I will check this week and post. She trained in Toronto at Ryerson (I think).

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Forgiveness does not excuse the behaviour. It prevents the behaviour from breaking your heart over and over again.

sewme47
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sewme47
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 10/23/12 4:26 PM

Courtney, I totally agree. Pati Palmer and Marta Alto are very talented and gifted teachers, but that book needs a total revamp!

But the videos are awesome. My favorite is the Full Bust dvd...they show how to do FBAs to several styles of tops...princess seam, surpice, twist top, fitted jacket, knit top, strapless bodice, in addition to a simple darted front. I learned so much!

The FFRP and Pants for Real People dvds are also very informative. The jeans dvd is good, too, just not quite as helpful as the others, but they do also cover jeans construction, which is great. Even if you prefer not to use tissue-fitting (I personally prefer muslins) the Palmer/Pletsch methods are still good to know and are a great place to start with pattern fitting!

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A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/23/12 4:34 PM

I would highly recommend Barbara Deckert's Sewing for Plus Sizes if the 'regular' fitting books (FFRP etc.) aren't specific enough for you. It definitely talks about some alterations for large folks that I've not seen discussed anywhere else.

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AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/23/12 9:15 PM

I also like Barbara Deckert's Sewing for Plus Sizes. She is such a nice person. I saw on Linkedin that she was connected to Craftsy. Wonder if she is going to do a class for them? That is one I would buy in an instant.

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Ada

rosehatten
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rosehatten  Friend of PR
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In reply to AdaH <<
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Date: 10/24/12 6:46 AM

Ada, I just saw on her blog that she is doing a Craftsy class on Plus Size Pattern Fitting and Design starting Oct 30. And I think it's 20% off!

Rose

JocelynJ
JocelynJ
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WA
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Date: 10/24/12 1:21 PM

I love Barbara Deckert and her book as well. Just seems to make sense for my body type, Thank God!

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