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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Darted raglan sleeves

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Darted raglan sleeves
Where should the shoulder dart end?
Marilly
Marilly
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Date: 10/23/12 4:49 PM

Hi All
I've been fiddling with a software generated pattern for a raglan sleeve knit top this month and trying to fit my forward rolled shoulders ( fun fun).
What I'm not sure about is how the dart should lie and where it should end.
As far as fitting goes, the width of the dart and it's relation to the center grain of the rest of the sleeve are good. My third try has the dart lying along the crest of my shoulder and ending at the apex of the shoulder ball. I thought it would work like bust darts do, but there's some dart tip peaking there I'm not fond of and this is an interlock knit so I thought it'd settle better.
So I'm just not sure which way to go with this and not have it look dorky. Is the style for darted raglans to have the dart go up, over, & past the shoulder edge a bit( like say, .5 in.) or should it stay inside the concave area of the shoulder ending where the ball of the shoulder starts?
I don't have a commercial pattern raglan that has darts so no ref.
Oh, and along with the forward roll, I'm square shouldered too so that might factor in too.
Suggestions welcome
Shel

goodworks1
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Date: 10/23/12 5:04 PM

I'd back off on the length until you lose the peak. I think you are right about it ending at the shoulder point, well before the ball of the arm bone.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Marilly <<


Date: 10/24/12 8:18 AM

I made Lutterloh top with darted raglan sleeves and I really love the look (makes my upper arms look thinner and my shoulders look straighter) The dart rolls off the knob of the shoulder down about 1-2" on mine.

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goodworks1
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 10/24/12 11:13 AM

Quote: Miss Fairchild
The dart rolls off the knob of the shoulder down about 1-2" on mine.

So, I guess it depends on the look you want....

Miss Fairchild, does your dart curve at the shoulder point?

-- Edited on 10/24/12 11:13 AM --

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Marilly
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 10/24/12 7:21 PM

Yes, please can you show how is the dart shaped in the Lutterloh pattern? Do you have a review of that here? I'd like to see how that style of dart should fit. I agree that darted sleeves are nicer than the no dart if you like a higher armscye.

The software I'm using defaults to a bowed rather than a straight leg dart, which I'd think would favor the dart stopping short of the shoulder idea ( I'm going to try that next).
I also did a self draft using the Metric Pattern Cutting by Aldrich as a guide. That produced a very close fit shoulder that also a a longish shoulder dart that had a slight 'peak'. Only issues with that one was it'd be best for a fabric with greater stretch and the diagonal style lines are too high for my taste..like a raglan that wants to be a strap shoulder when it grows up.
Thanks for the input so far.
Shel

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