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Narrow shoulder and Broad back problem with fitting How to adjust for narrow shoulder and broad back
sewnotwork Advanced Beginner CO USA Member since 7/19/11 Posts: 58	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/23/12 11:56 PM I'm working on a jacket and it's been years since tried to do a bodice with sleeve/armscye because of the need to do alterations. The armscye was too deep so I shortened it by taking an inch out vertically between the shoulders and bust. When I bring my arms forward it seems a tad tight just in the bottom 1/3 of the armscye in the back and is tight 1-1/2 inches below bottom of armscye. Probably could use 1/2 inch of room on both sides. I have narrowed the shoulder by lopping off the end of the top of the shoulder and tapering to mid-armscye. So now I'm not sure what to do with the broad back. Should I move it out and then narrow the shoulder again? Or should I first adjust for broad back and then lop off the end of shoulder to adjust for narrow shoulder? I'm just working on a muslin. Thanks!
ryan's mom PA USA Member since 11/30/04 Posts: 4370	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/24/12 6:22 AM When I do an upper broad back adjustment on a jacket, it creates a dart at the back shoulder seam. It could be eased or sewn as a dart if it is a 1/2" or less. Any more than a 1/2" (which is typically not the case for me) is stitched as a dart. My preference doing both is to narrow the shoulders first, then do the broad back adjustment. ETA, and I do indeed do both adjustments on my jackets and woven tops. -- Edited on 10/24/12 6:22 AM -- ------ Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!) Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.) Machines: Sewing (Janome Memory Craft 3000 and Kenmore 158 Series machine), Serger (Babylock Imagine), Embroidery (Janome 300E) If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs. My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com
Karla Kizer   Advanced FL USA Member since 4/8/02 Posts: 6970	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 10/24/12 6:27 AM I often cut an upper back one size larger for my daughter, and ease the back shoulder seam to make it fit the narrower front seam. That works well with soft fabrics or knits. For a tailored jacket, or one made of a heftier fabric, you might have to consider adding a dart in the back shoulder seam. Just copy the position, length and angle from another garment. Those darts usually start near the center of the shoulder seam and angle slightly toward the most prominent part of the back. ------ “Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann. Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket? Matthew 25:40 (New International Version) The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'
Sheseams Intermediate OH USA Member since 4/22/09 Posts: 64	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/27/12 6:58 PM This is one of my usual adjustments I do when I sew. I like to use the size that best fits my shoulders (ex size 20). 1. I take the back piece and cut it cross wise to separate the top portion of it from the bottom. 2. taking the top portion, I make a cut upward (where the shoulder blade would be) being careful not to go all the way to the top. 3. I then spread the cut I made the number of inches I may need (any where from 1-1.5 inches. It should look like this ^ 4. Then I take the bottom piece, cut it in half and spread it the apart the amount I made in the top (ex 1.5 inches). 5. Then tape the two piece back together. Here is a rough draft picture: Back adjustment This give you the extra "space" you need for the shoulders blades without changing the shoulder seam. -- Edited on 10/27/12 7:06 PM -- ------ She Seams (at least it looks like she knows...) http://togetherattheseams.wordpress.com/
halleyscomet   Intermediate PA USA Member since 3/27/07 Posts: 1374	Login to reply to this post In reply to Sheseams << Like this post Date: 10/27/12 7:21 PM Won't let me view the back adjustment but I think I know what you mean.
GlButterfly Intermediate CA USA Member since 8/28/08 Posts: 2388	Login to reply to this post In reply to halleyscomet << Like this post Date: 10/27/12 7:28 PM It won't me view it either. ------ I have not yet begun to procrastinate
Sheseams Intermediate OH USA Member since 4/22/09 Posts: 64	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 10/30/12 10:15 PM Back Adjustment Hopefully you can see this :-) ------ She Seams (at least it looks like she knows...) http://togetherattheseams.wordpress.com/
Speech girl Intermediate GA USA Member since 5/11/03 Posts: 1656	Login to reply to this post In reply to sewnotwork << Like this post Date: 10/31/12 9:51 AM What I do is to only do the narrow shoulder adjustment on front, and to ease the back shoulder seam into the front. I use Sandra Betzina's narrow shoulder adjustment from Fast Fit. ------ Kim formerly mikkim http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/
sewnotwork Advanced Beginner CO USA Member since 7/19/11 Posts: 58	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/5/12 12:59 PM Thanks for the help!

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