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Forum > Fitting Woes > Narrow shoulder and Broad back problem with fitting ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Narrow shoulder and Broad back problem with fitting
How to adjust for narrow shoulder and broad back
sewnotwork
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sewnotwork
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Colorado USA
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Date: 10/23/12 11:56 PM

I'm working on a jacket and it's been years since tried to do a bodice with sleeve/armscye because of the need to do alterations. The armscye was too deep so I shortened it by taking an inch out vertically between the shoulders and bust. When I bring my arms forward it seems a tad tight just in the bottom 1/3 of the armscye in the back and is tight 1-1/2 inches below bottom of armscye. Probably could use 1/2 inch of room on both sides. I have narrowed the shoulder by lopping off the end of the top of the shoulder and tapering to mid-armscye. So now I'm not sure what to do with the broad back. Should I move it out and then narrow the shoulder again? Or should I first adjust for broad back and then lop off the end of shoulder to adjust for narrow shoulder? I'm just working on a muslin. Thanks!

ryan's mom
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ryan's mom  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/24/12 6:22 AM

When I do an upper broad back adjustment on a jacket, it creates a dart at the back shoulder seam. It could be eased or sewn as a dart if it is a 1/2" or less. Any more than a 1/2" (which is typically not the case for me) is stitched as a dart.

My preference doing both is to narrow the shoulders first, then do the broad back adjustment. ETA, and I do indeed do both adjustments on my jackets and woven tops.
-- Edited on 10/24/12 6:22 AM --

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Coverstitch: Janome CP1000. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

Karla Kizer
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Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/24/12 6:27 AM

I often cut an upper back one size larger for my daughter, and ease the back shoulder seam to make it fit the narrower front seam. That works well with soft fabrics or knits. For a tailored jacket, or one made of a heftier fabric, you might have to consider adding a dart in the back shoulder seam. Just copy the position, length and angle from another garment. Those darts usually start near the center of the shoulder seam and angle slightly toward the most prominent part of the back.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Sheseams
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Sheseams
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Date: 10/27/12 6:58 PM

This is one of my usual adjustments I do when I sew. I like to use the size that best fits my shoulders (ex size 20).

1. I take the back piece and cut it cross wise to separate the top portion of it from the bottom.

2. taking the top portion, I make a cut upward (where the shoulder blade would be) being careful not to go all the way to the top.

3. I then spread the cut I made the number of inches I may need (any where from 1-1.5 inches. It should look like this ^

4. Then I take the bottom piece, cut it in half and spread it the apart the amount I made in the top (ex 1.5 inches).

5. Then tape the two piece back together.

Here is a rough draft picture:
Back adjustment

This give you the extra "space" you need for the shoulders blades without changing the shoulder seam.
-- Edited on 10/27/12 7:06 PM --

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Keeping myself together one stitch at a time.

http://sheseams.blogspot.com

halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sheseams <<


Date: 10/27/12 7:21 PM

Won't let me view the back adjustment but I think I know what you mean.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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In reply to halleyscomet <<


Date: 10/27/12 7:28 PM

It won't me view it either.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Sheseams
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Sheseams
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Date: 10/30/12 10:15 PM

Back Adjustment

Hopefully you can see this :-)

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Keeping myself together one stitch at a time.

http://sheseams.blogspot.com

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewnotwork <<


Date: 10/31/12 9:51 AM

What I do is to only do the narrow shoulder adjustment on front, and to ease the back shoulder seam into the front. I use Sandra Betzina's narrow shoulder adjustment from Fast Fit.

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

sewnotwork
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sewnotwork
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Date: 11/5/12 12:59 PM

Thanks for the help!

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