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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Pattern has no inside facing to cover unfinished zipper tape at front chest/collar

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Pattern has no inside facing to cover unfinished zipper tape at front chest/collar
I've got one idea...looking for others!
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Member since 1/7/09
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Date: 10/24/12 6:40 PM

I've been working with KS3570 for both DS and DH on and off for almost 2 yrs. I think I have finally got most of the fitting issues figured out, but have been stumped with how to finish the inside zipper area. KS doesn't use any type of a facing on the inside, except for folding over the mock turtleneck collar to cover the very top of the zip (as seen on left-side of 1st photo).

I've looked in books, on PR and online for ideas, but since this is a front neckline half-zipper and it's not in a seam, I haven't been able to find anything that illustrates how to cover the zipper tape as I would like to have it look, esp. when the zipper is down and the collar is lying open. ( I think it was BarbNM who made a type of fly facing to keep her DH's hair from getting caught, but that's not a problem for my guys, and it didn't solve her discontent with the unfinished look when the zipper was unzipped and open either.)

Here's a photo of the inside (with the left collar folded over).

In the 2nd photo is *my* idea of attaching small strips (as shown along the right side of the zipper tape and bottom) of the same fabric onto the outside of the zipper tape and rapping it around and then stitching carefully. I would need to do this before I install the zippers.

3rd photo shows a inside facing, but it's attached to a lining, so that won't help me with KS3570, but at least shows me what a finished one looks like for future jackets.
I'd really prefer not to have any stitching show on the front of the top in an outline of a facing - I only want to protect the bare skin from scratchy, zipper tapes, and have it look nice and finished when lying open. Will my idea work okay, or is there a better way to finish the inside (not with ribbon either), that will lay down nicely and not require additional stitching on the front ? I do plan to top-stitch around the zipper on the front as the pattern indicates, but hopefully much neater than in one of my earlier attempts as shown here.
Inside zipper tape finishing suggestions, (and while I'm asking for help, perhaps some nice "how-to-topstitch-around-zipper-pulls on very stretchy fabric" suggestions) are most welcome! Thanks!
-- Edited on 10/24/12 6:47 PM --

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WV USA
Member since 11/23/10
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Date: 10/24/12 7:34 PM

I think a placket is your best bet. Here's a nice tutorial on how to sew a placket with a zipper. You don't have to attach it to the lining. You can let it hang "free", or top-stitch it down. I believe that most of them are top-stitched down in Ready To Wear.

Edit:
Also, Steam-A-Seam is your friend for stretchy fabric. ;)
-- Edited on 10/24/12 7:34 PM --

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 10/24/12 7:49 PM

Thanks Courtney, that is a good tutorial and was one of many I found prior to posting, but even after looking at it again, I still don't see where you make a placket facing without inserting it into a seam. Maybe I'm missing it? Do you know which application describes it? Thanks!

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/24/12 9:05 PM

Zippers

Here's a similar type university extension publication about zippers, but with a bit more detail. See page 6, Exposed Zipper application and the sub-section: To Apply Where There Is No Seam. This shows a method to face the zipper opening.

CMC

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 10/24/12 9:57 PM

Quote:
3. If there is no facing or directions given for mak-
ing a facing, use nonwoven sew-in interfacing.
Place the interfacing to the right side of fabric.
This is clearer to me, thank you. I had not seen these instructions in my googling. Can I use the fabric as a facing instead of the sew-in interfacing?

After reading the instructions, as I'm understanding them, I should add this piece of material (interfacing or facing) between the zipper and the right side of the garment before I flip the zipper over to finish it? In other words, I would construct the zipper in as I did before (according to the KS instructions), only this time I would have an extra piece cut at least 2" wide sandwiched in-between, and it will become the finished facing piece on the inside, and cover the exposed zipper tape when I flip it in? I hope so, I will give this a try! Thanks
Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to hazelnut <<


Date: 10/25/12 9:31 AM

Quote:
I should add this piece of material (interfacing or facing) between the zipper and the right side of the garment before I flip the zipper over to finish it? In other words, I would construct the zipper in as I did before (according to the KS instructions), only this time I would have an extra piece cut at least 2" wide sandwiched in-between, and it will become the finished facing piece on the inside, and cover the exposed zipper tape when I flip it in?



Sounds about right! Don't forget to tuck the ends of this material under, so that when you stitch it, you have nice finished edges on the inside. Personally, I'd do that before I did anything else, with Steam-A-Seam.

Then, layer with washable fusible interfacing, and vewy, vewy carefully sew (using a zipper foot, if you have one, or hand-basting and then machine stitching if you don't) the three layers of fabric (plus the interfacing) together.

Then flip, and steam the washable fusible interfacing to adhere the placket and the jacket fabric together.

Then, you can sew the edges of the placket to the jacket material without fear of all the fabric sliding around.

When you're done, you should be to throw it in the wash without fear. :)
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 10/25/12 3:07 PM

Quote:
Don't forget to tuck the ends of this material under, so that when you stitch it, you have nice finished edges on the inside
I was thinking of just serging the outside of the facing edges and not stitching them down to the front of the shirt. I'm hoping that the topstitching around the zipper and then tacking the piece at the shoulder/collar seams, will be enough to hold it in place. I have steam a seam lite 2, but I don't see that as being that much different tht the knit interfacing I'm using with the zipper...but maybe it is more stable in the length. Maybe I can forgo the SaS and extend the zipper interfacing, or adhere the interfacing to the facing I'm going to be creating. I know I must sound dense right now, sorry. I need to take that zipper apart and do a hands-on...it should make more sense to me then (I hope) LOL Facings and interfacings are still unfamiliar territory to me, but I hope to get more educated as I branch out from plain t-shirts and attempt them.
Thanks a lot!
Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to hazelnut <<


Date: 10/25/12 11:10 PM

No worries. I never think of serging because I don't have a serger. You could avoid the SaS with a good interfacing, certainly. Good luck!

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/26/12 11:41 AM

Thanks I post back on how it turns out, though it may be a couple days since I got new toys learn to use too. Probably another reason my head is spinning with information! Really stretching these brain cells to the max. LOL

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/2/12 7:55 PM

I've ripped out the zipper and cut a piece of fabric for a facing, but a new question has popped up, even after re-reading the zipper download. I'm unsure of whether or not I should fuse the zipper interfacing piece to the facing that I have created, instead of on the shirt front, as per original instructions (and the photo). This photo shows the zipper and interfacing template lying on the facing piece, and the original fusible interfacing cut through on the front piece, which I'm guessing would be eliminated on my next muslin.

If I fuse the interfacing strip to the facing, I will need to stitch around the zipper through 2 layers of fabric and then cut through both layers to open the zipper before flipping it inside out to top-stitch. I'm a little worried that the facing may slip around, even with basting or gluing, and my zipper might not be centered evenly on the front of the shirt.

Am I making this harder than it looks? Am I going about it in the right way? I so wish this pattern (or any pattern in my stash) had a front zipper facing, interfacing and instructions for lining things up. Should I use wonder-tape to glue the facing to the body front before stitching around the zipper? If so, any tips for how to mark my front piece to know the zipper with the whole kit and caboodle is centered? It was easy to see the interfacing and set the zipper properly on just one layer. Thanks!

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