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Is this the Right thing to do?
Forget the FBA?? Or NOT!
Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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Date: 10/26/12 0:23 AM

I am taking this pattern alteration course which naturally includes the most dreaded FBA.

The pattern I chose to work through is a Connie Crawford pattern, Butterick B5300. It has already been drafted as a plus size pattern. This is the link. I am making View C

I traced my pattern, I measured, did the best tissue fitting I could manage and it seamed like I really did not need an FBA!! The dart as drafted looks perfect. Could the sewing gods be this kind I wondered??

I did move the bust apex down 1/2 inch and re-drew my darts. I shortened my pattern and added 1/2 inch to the sleeves for additional ease. I adjusted both the front and back arm holes for this additional width.

All was well, until I realized that the center front landing exactly at center front on my tissue fitting was not necesarily a good thing! This pattern has buttons so there needs to be an overlap. At least that is what I thought....

So I remeasured everything width wise from where the overlap and discovered I need about another inch over the bust area to have a good cross over for the buttons and still have some ease. I decided an extra inch in the hips would not be a bad idea either for ease. (so 1/4 inch each side)

So...do an FBA for a 1/2 inch adjustment for width only? Okay... but then how do I realign the hip area for the spread created by creating the half inch at the bust?

Not sure on that at all! So I did some googling and found some sources that for that small an adjustment I could just add it on to the sides. So, since I already added 1/2 inch from the arm hole I just extended that 1/2 inch around the bust dart. Once past the bust dart then I tapered to my 1/4 for the hips (adding an inch all round for ease).

Is this okay?? Or should I wadd this up and start over doing the FBA first?

It might help to know that any length I would add doing an FBA would get swallowed up a few inches lower because I am only 5'3" and need to shorten EVERYTHING.

PS - If you do think I should start over... the FBA comes from the lowered bust apex right?

I thank you from the bottom of my heart for any guidance, advice, words of wisdom and so forth. My head hurts from thinking about all this!!

loti
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loti  Friend of PR
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In reply to Canadian Jane <<


Date: 10/26/12 0:26 AM

It looks like that pattern came in cup sizes are you trying to adjust for over a d or dd cup?

Just a few things come to mind

- When you just add to the sides, you are also making the armholes larger. This may affect the sleeve.

- When you make the armholes front and back larger, you need to add to the sleeve (maybe) sometimes these sleeves already come with so much ease you won't notice it.


Usually when changes are made to the pattern it's done in a way to maintain, as much as you can, the original curves of the pattern. When you start making changes to those original curves especially around the armhole and neckline areas, there is opportunity for it to go wrong. Will you be making a muslin?


Also the easiest way to determine how much ease is acceptable to you is to measure an existing garment (that is similar to the one you are making), and use that dimension. That way you eliminate the guess work.

-- Edited on 10/26/12 0:41 AM --

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Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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In reply to loti <<


Date: 10/26/12 1:22 AM

Great feedback.

Absolutely, next step is sewing up a muslin. I don't have an existing garment like this so it is hard to measure for reference. Most of what I wear is tee shirts or things that don't have darts. I did measure the sleeves on one short sleeve jacket and that is how I decided I might need more ease.

I also tried to follow the existing lines as much as possible. I think what is throwing me is that the bust was so close right off the bat.

One can only hope this gets easier .

Thanks!!

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/26/12 1:28 AM

I recently made a muslin from this pattern using the D/DD front and didn't need a fba either. I did need a 1/2 broad back adjustment. I also needed to add extra around the hips, an adjustment I never make.

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meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/26/12 10:34 PM

I can sometimes get away with a fake fba of just adding width. It depends on the pattern and the shape of your bust. The more fitted the pattern, the less room there is for fudging it. I think if you're very full in the bust, you will likely need the extra length as well as width a traditional fba adds.

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Melanie

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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Date: 11/5/12 7:32 AM

If you are sewing for the appropriate cup size you should not need an FBA. That's the whole point of these patterns and why I love them. Now there may be other fit issues but the bust size should be fine with the right pattern piece.

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avatrx

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In reply to solosmocker <<


Date: 11/12/12 3:49 PM

Quote: solosmocker
If you are sewing for the appropriate cup size you should not need an FBA. That's the whole point of these patterns and why I love them. Now there may be other fit issues but the bust size should be fine with the right pattern piece.

I am going to try the Simplicity 2446 again. This time I have Rev2 so the tissue should be accurate. If I understand you correctly, since this is a 'fitting' pattern and has a C cup section - I should be OK using that without having gaping armholes? The size I should choose is my full bust size, waist etc and I shouldn't use a smaller size using my upper bust and making a FBA?

I seem to have narrower shoulders. 4.5 and 4.25. will that make a big difference?
solosmocker
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solosmocker
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Date: 11/17/12 9:58 AM

Well, all I can say is I have used the larger cup size and had no issues with bust fit. If you have a broad back it could be pulling some of the front to the back to compensate and that is pulling your center front open, just a thought. Let us know how yo make out.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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