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Tight in the upper arm and now that I look at the model, it's tight on her as well!
Courtney Ostaff   Intermediate WV USA Member since 11/23/10 Posts: 624	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/27/12 5:24 PM I'm making BurdaStyle 09-2012-135. The shoulder is entirely wonky in my muslin. The upper sleeves are really tight, no matter how I adjust the sleeve cap. So, my question is....where do I add the fabric? I'm not used to working with these kind of sleeves. Do I add space to the bottom part of the sleeves, in that underarm piece? Or the larger, top piece? -- Edited on 10/27/12 5:25 PM --
CRUST Intermediate Member since 3/21/12 Posts: 87	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/27/12 5:34 PM hard to tell without seeing how it fits on you, but if you're having the same fit issues as the model then it looks like the shoulders don't extend far enough for the sleeve style. that means either extending the shoulders and redrafting the armscye and sleeve cap or redrafting the sleeve cap to a more bulbous shape with a sleeve head under it for support.
Boo97 Intermediate SC USA Member since 12/8/06 Posts: 30	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/27/12 6:51 PM Why not frankenpattern? Use another sleeve pattern that has the fit you like and use it as a replacement or guide.
Courtney Ostaff   Intermediate WV USA Member since 11/23/10 Posts: 624	Login to reply to this post In reply to Boo97 << Like this post Date: 10/27/12 7:06 PM Good point!
Courtney Ostaff   Intermediate WV USA Member since 11/23/10 Posts: 624	Login to reply to this post In reply to CRUST << Like this post Date: 10/27/12 7:09 PM The shoulders do extend more than far enough, actually. I'm going to have to cut a goodly chunk off the top shoulder seam to actually have the sleeve cap hit at the top of my shoulder and not the arm. I'm going to have to re-draft the sleeve, as well as the sleeve cap. It's not just a tightness across the top of the shoulder, but all the way around. It's simply not a big enough hole for my arm to go through.
Red Dragon Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 2/4/08 Posts: 336	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 10/27/12 8:08 PM Sounds like a full bicep adjustment is in order, just a slash and spread. ------ Tracy, Canberra Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch
Courtney Ostaff   Intermediate WV USA Member since 11/23/10 Posts: 624	Login to reply to this post In reply to Red Dragon << Like this post Date: 10/27/12 10:42 PM Quote: Red Dragon Sounds like a full bicep adjustment is in order, just a slash and spread. Right, but do I slash the top sleeve piece or the under-sleeve piece? Or both?
kathi s Beginner CA USA Member since 1/23/03 Posts: 1657	Login to reply to this post 2 members like this. Date: 10/27/12 11:42 PM There is an article in the recent Threads that offers a different way to do a full bicep adjustment. It doesn't appear to néed an adjustment to the sleeve cap. I need to do a full bicep adjustment on every pattern I make so will try it out as soon as I get some sewing for DH completed.
Baja Susana   Advanced MEXICO Member since 7/13/08 Posts: 289	Login to reply to this post In reply to Courtney Ostaff << 1 member likes this. Date: 10/28/12 4:43 AM Courtney, I looked closely at the jacket. The sleeve is snug on the model. You might try laying a TNT bodice over this, retrace the armscye and use a sleeve that fits. S ------ Baja Susana www.susansewsdaily.blogspot.com Sewing on the beach, what could be better?
Red Dragon Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 2/4/08 Posts: 336	Login to reply to this post In reply to Courtney Ostaff << 1 member likes this. Date: 10/28/12 5:36 AM According to the Palmer/Pletch book, slash and spread the back sleeve piece and let out the centre seam if you need room on both upper and lower arm. It is surprising hard to find anything on this for two piece sleeves. This is a handy discussion as I usually need to do a full bicep adjustment but have managed to avoid it on two piece sleeves. ------ Tracy, Canberra Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

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