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Forum > Fitting Woes > bust darts ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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bust darts
Can they actually be too big?
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
Pennsylvania USA
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Date: 10/27/12 6:33 PM

My upper bust is 35 and my full bust is 37. I cut out a size 10 for the shoulders for a blouse with bust and waist darts and a size 14 with a 1/2 inch FBA. It's weird but the bust is actually too tight. The center fronts won't meet but the back fits fine. To me it looked like the darts were too low so I raised them up and made them smaller and now the top meets at the center front. What happened?
Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
West Virginia USA
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In reply to halleyscomet

Date: 10/27/12 10:49 PM

You can absolutely have bust darts that are too big!
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
Pennsylvania USA
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff

Date: 10/28/12 11:45 AM

I guess because larger darts take up more fabric is why the top won't meet at the center front? The darts now are a little smaller and up higher and now the top meets at the center front. I wonder if I shouldn't have done a FBA in the first place?
Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
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In reply to halleyscomet

Date: 10/28/12 9:08 PM

I think FBAs are good for when you don't want to look too sloppy, for lack of a better word. Yes, every time you do one, you take up fabric. It's to make the shirt more fitted.
andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/31/12 1:33 PM

Mark the bust point on your muslin-- looks like a circled cross. Does it actually coincide with where your bust point actually is?

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

meleliza
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meleliza
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In reply to halleyscomet

Date: 11/1/12 0:41 AM

I'm curious about why you cut a size 10? I think perhaps a 14 would be a better starting point. With only a 2" difference between full and high bust, I suspect that there is no need for an fba. That indicates a Bcup, which is what patterns are drafted for. Actual bra size may vary from sewing pattern cups size. It is definitely possible that you need to adjust darts up or down. They're drafted on a kind of average shape, but women's bodies vary quite a lot depending on genes, age and life experience.

------
Melanie

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