Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > How to Hem Stretch Knit ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
How to Hem Stretch Knit
Twin Needle or not?
Scheri
star
Scheri  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
AB CANADA
Member since 7/13/10
Posts: 346
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/29/12 0:21 AM

I have a knit dress I am making for my daughter christmas party.

It is a very soft loose woven knit. I did find this in Threads but woukld like anyone feedback on if they have tried this method. Or if you can suggest a method.

Hem a soft, crushable knit
If you're sewing a soft knit without much body, topstitching the hem, especially with a twin needle, may result in tunneling and rippled edges, since knits stretch more on the crossgrain. My solution is to stabilize the hem with strips of fusible interfacing, which also anchor the hem during stitching. I prefer the results I get with two rows of topstitching rather than twin-needle stitching.

It's easiest to stabilize the hems before assembling the garment. Prepare the hems by pressing them into place (I use an oak-tag template). Cut 1/2-in.-wide strips of soft, all-bias knit fusible interfacing like SofKnit. Sew or serge the right side of a strip to the wrong side of the hem edge (adhesive side is up). After constructing the garment, fold the hem up, fuse it in place, and topstitch from the right side.

-Marcy Tilton of Takilma, OR, teaches at The Sewing Workshop in San Francisco[QUOTE]

------
Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

sewme47
star
sewme47
Intermediate
IL USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 725
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/29/12 6:30 AM

I have used the method described to hem stable knits, but the results are not "stretchy" enough for softer knits like jersey, in my opinion. My favorite hem for all kinds of knits is a coverstitch!

------
A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

KathySews
star
KathySews  Friend of PR
Advanced
MI USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 3651

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/29/12 6:37 AM

I have bad luck with twin needles. There is always tunneling on knits. Before I had my coverstitch I basically did what Marci suggested with good results. It takes a little longer but better results.

Since it sounds like a special dress, I suggest doing some tests on scrap fabric to see which you prefer.

cathy45
star
cathy45
Advanced Beginner
KY USA
Member since 7/6/06
Posts: 165
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/29/12 10:57 AM

Maybe I'm doing something "wrong" but I always get tunnelling with twin needles on knit. Marci Tilton's method is very similar to Sandra Betzina's who uses Steam a Seam lite to stabilize then stitch.

------
Cathy

"I'm not messy, I'm creative" - Mary Engelbreight

heathergwo
heathergwo  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/29/12 12:26 PM

Is it a knit that requires a hem?? I made a recent dress and the knit is so tight/soft and has that slight curl to the edge that it doesn't even need a formal hem, just a good, straight cut.

Just a thought???

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

Steffie
starstar
Steffie
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 11/6/04
Posts: 875
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Scheri <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/29/12 12:41 PM

I have had issues with tunneling when using a twin needle on loose knits. You may find that stabilizing first will still allow you to use the twin needle and lessen the tunneling. You can also try playing with the tension and stitch length to see if that will help. Using tissue paper as an additional stabilizer to the back of the seam 'may' help. It does help with decorative stitching... I would do this in addition to the seam stabilizer.

I agree with the suggestion to try a few ideas on scraps before you hem the garment.

Doris W. in TN
star
Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
Intermediate
TN USA
Member since 2/9/04
Posts: 7462
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/30/12 10:44 AM

I had tunneling on knits with twin needles. For that reason, I do a straight stitch and run a second line the desired distance away and parallel to the first. I also use a slight ( .5) zigzag. It always looks straight on a knit, and offers some 'give.' A zigzag larger than .5 is possible, and I always test, test, test first on a scrap of the fabric *and* on the same grain orientation. I gently pull and try to stress that stitch, in case it wants to pop or do anything ugly.

ETA - I do not stabilize the hems with a knit fusible interfacing, but I mostly make tee-tops. Marcy T's info might be worth trying, with the loosely woven knit.

My favorite way to hem a knit is to use 1/2" Lite Steam-a-Seam and fuse it in place first. No pinning required, and the S-a-S will stretch very nicely, with good recovery. Again, test first on your own fabric..
-- Edited on 10/30/12 10:45 AM --

bakertoo
bakertoo
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 12/26/08
Posts: 394
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/30/12 12:45 PM

I have used a twin needle to hem knits. I did some practice work on scraps, and that was when I found I had to lengthen the stitch to get it to work. I used the wider twin needle on a thicker knit, but I had to try all the different widths to figure out which one was going to work on my fabric.

I also found a new good use for a couple of the decorative stitches on my machine--the decorative look of the pretty stitch is really fun, and adds a little pop to the top, since it is not a print. I used the decorative stitch on the neck, sleeves and bottom, and its pretty cute.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WV USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
Login to reply to this post

Date: 10/30/12 1:41 PM

I used fusible interfacing for the top of a wrap shirt, along with some wooly nylon and a twin needle, and it worked beautifully.

PattyE
starstar
PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI
Member since 9/7/10
Posts: 1321
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/30/12 11:23 PM

Hmmm...I hem knits quite often with just my walking foot. What do you guys mean by tunneling?

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> How to Hem Stretch Knit

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Put it on the Bias
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
Put it on the Bias

Online Sewing Classes
Fit the Tee to a T
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Fit the Tee to a T

Simplicity 2311
photo
Review by michou68 on 10/18/10
Read Review

Burda 7065 Pattern
Burda 7065 Pattern

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 8849 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Vogue 8849 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $27.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3076
photo
Review by CarolynD on 1/22/06
Read Review

Peek-A Boo Coney Island Tankini Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )
Peek-A Boo Coney Island Tankini Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Lullaby Layette Set Digital Pattern
Oliver + S Lullaby Layette Set Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $16.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

SewBaby Prairie Bonnet Pattern
SewBaby Prairie Bonnet Pattern

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Riviera Shirt Pattern
Sewing Workshop Riviera Shirt Pattern

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN