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Adding design ease to a sloper/block
Grading? Re-drafting? Adding to the side seams?
VolcanoMouse
VolcanoMouse
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Date: 10/30/12 4:24 PM

Hello, all,

I've been working on a bodice block for myself. It's finally fitting how I like, but I'm stumped on how one takes this not-uncomfortable-but-definitely-very-fitted pattern and turns it into a blouse with a looser, more casual, cut. Right now, it would be good for a cocktail dress and little else. :-)

My textbook (Handford's Professional Patternmaking for Designers) tells I'll do this by drafting a new, looser fitting "blouse block." This one will have 3" of ease, compared to the first bodice block's 1.85".

This mystifies me. Does it mean I have to throw out all my work every time I want to use a different amount of design ease? That seems really inefficient. Isn't there some way of using the bodice/torso patterns I've already made and tested, instead of starting from scratch?

I've heard passing references online to grading the bodice block up, slashing and spreading, and adding width at the side seams. I'll try for any of those, but I don't know which is best or how to start!

I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you might have on how to add enough ease to make this pattern useful for everyday clothing. Or maybe there's a really good reason to start from scratch that I'm not seeing? Either way, I would love to be educated!
-- Edited on 10/30/12 4:24 PM --

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 10/30/12 7:46 PM

A sloper/block is meant to be made once and nearly all clothing designs are to be made from it.

I've asked the question many times of how to make designs from it with the desired ease. The answer I get is to add at the side seams. This was also in a book.

This is why when I (finally) make mine, I will make it with approximately 3-4" of ease built into it. Then, if I need more, I can add.

I always find it interesting that they tell you to do this, that, and manipulate the darts to get the design you want, but never really mention how and where to add the ease.

------
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Sarsez
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Sarsez
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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 10/30/12 10:39 PM

As I'm only (hopefully) one toile away from my own bodice block, I too, are looking at options to make it useful too! I'm assuming you want to take a close fitting woven bodice block (with wearing ease) and add design ease to change the silouhette to either a semi fitted or loose fitted bodice block?
I don't own Handford but have Armstrong, Haggar and Chuman Lo. Both Armstrong and Haggar show ways of taking your close fitting bodice block and changing them to more loose fitting. It involves changing the side seams, adjusting the shoulders and moving the side darts into the armholes to make them deeper and looser. Of course this affects the sleeve, so the sleeve cap then needs to be flattened as well. Whilst I haven't actually followed these drafts through, they are quite prescriptive. In other words, the authors have decided how much design ease to add and you just have to follow their steps. Too bad if it's more design ease than you wish! Chunman Lo is a book I have borrowed from the library and I have only had it a week or so, but he points out something that I find very interesting. He writes that if the side seams are made wider, than the darts should move proportionately down and back towards the side seams. Armstrong and Haggar tend to eliminate the darts where as Chunman Lo gives options for a little design ease but still keeping the shaping through the darts.

HTH

------
24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
Remember to shop your stash girl!
Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

andye
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Date: 10/31/12 2:54 PM

Some other books-- I'm thinking of Ann Hagar, here-- have you draft so many intermediate blocks that it becomes annoying.

How do yo make a swimsuit? Well, you start with the swimsuit block, which is made from one piece block, which itself is a modification of the bodice block and the skirt block. It gets a bit much if you want to get right down to drafting.

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Sarsez
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In reply to andye <<
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Date: 10/31/12 6:41 PM

Quote:
How do yo make a swimsuit? Well, you start with the swimsuit block, which is made from one piece block, which itself is a modification of the bodice block and the skirt block. It gets a bit much if you want to get right down to drafting.


Yep... And it's around this point you think, .. %^#$$@ it. I'll use a commercial pattern. And then the fitting fun begins and you think, .... %#$^@@%# it. Next time I'll work from a block!!!!!

------
24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
Remember to shop your stash girl!
Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

GlButterfly

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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 11/6/12 5:54 PM

I was hoping more people would offer their information.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Nancy K
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 11/6/12 6:25 PM

I am taking a class with Kenneth King starting this Saturday on drafting sleeves and collars for the slopers we made from our moulage that I drafted in another of his classes. I hope that we will also talk about how to add ease. What's the difference between a sloper and a block?

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 11/6/12 7:25 PM

Quote:
This mystifies me. Does it mean I have to throw out all my work every time I want to use a different amount of design ease? That seems really inefficient. Isn't there some way of using the bodice/torso patterns I've already made and tested, instead of starting from scratch?
The answer is No. You should have three basic blocks from one sloper: Blouse, T-shirt and jacket. The jacket is the largest amount of ease, then comes the blouse , then the t-shirt. The difference between the blouse and t-shirt blocks should be the bust darts and waist darts; on the t-shirt, they don't appear and on the blouse they do. Truly, it's a combination of what exactly you want--Do you want something full with no darts? T-shirt sloper. Do you want something with a dart and a little full, that you can rotate the dart to princess seams, yokes, etc.? Then it's the blouse. Do you want a loose fitting tunic? Then it's the jacket.

You start off with those blocks and add the ease as you see fit.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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sew2006
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Date: 11/6/12 8:15 PM

Another good way to think of your block as a non demensinal version of yourself. Your block will show you the minimum space required for your body to fit into a garment. Take your block front and lay it over a simple blouse pattern. Match up the bust point (horizontal) and centre over the pattern. Now compare the distance from bust to waist. If the waist of the blouse is lower raise it to match your "block". Look at the hip line of your block and your blouse. Do they match up at the proper level? Look at the shoulder slope of your block. Does the blose have a similar angle? If not, slash and spread your blouse pattern to match.

I have a basic tshirt pattern that has the minimum ease I feel comfortable in a top with moderate stretch. Before I even choose a pattern size I lay the front block over my commercial pattern. I know right away what size I need, if the armhole is too deep, if the neckline is too low for work and if the neckline is too wide causing shirt to fall off my shoulders. I than adjust the commercial pattern to cover my sloper. Think of it as a flat tissue fitting method.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

Sarsez
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 11/6/12 11:25 PM

Quote:
What's the difference between a sloper and a block?


My understanding is the difference is based on location. That is, North American sources refer to a sloper where as Aust/UK refer to a block.

I would love to take a drafting class with Kenneth King. Please let us know how you go.

------
24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
Remember to shop your stash girl!
Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

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