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Help Please!
Can I Move this Dart There?
Susan C
Susan C
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 649
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Date: 11/3/12 2:59 PM

On the very good advice from other PR members, I've added an FBA to the pattern. I don't want to leave it as a horizontal dart but also don't have a real lapel to hide it under.

There is a small vertical dart in the front of the jacket but it doesn't go all the way to the hem. Is it ok add my new dart to that existing vertical dart (now it will go all the way to the hem)? Will it work or is it too much fabric and that's why the dart didn't go to the hem in the first place?

Thanks for any help.

Susan
photo
-- Edited on 11/3/12 3:01 PM --
-- Edited on 11/3/12 3:02 PM --

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
Intermediate
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
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In reply to Susan C <<


Date: 11/3/12 10:42 PM

Oh, this is too complex for me! I hope someone "gets" your question! Also---that pic is really small. Do you have a link to a larger one?

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3247
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In reply to Susan C <<


Date: 11/3/12 11:53 PM

Not all darts go to the hem. Once you add to it, I think it will have to go to the hem.

I'm no expert, but this is how I would do it. Extend both darts to the bust point, cut, leaving a tiny bit for a hinge. You have created a designer's dart. Close the bust dart, which will be automatically added to the vertical dart. Now draw the vertical dart point to its original position (a dressmaker's dart). You have now manipulated the darts. Do this on paper, not fabric! Make a trial garment.

Depending on how much of an FBA you made, it might make the vertical dart quite large.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Susan C
Susan C
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 649
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 11/4/12 11:14 PM

I'm not sure how to link to a larger picture. I'm kind of new to this linking stuff. I thought it might be too large

Thanks for responding and see below for the continuing saga of the added bust dart.

Thanks

Susan

Susan C
Susan C
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 649
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 11/4/12 11:27 PM

Thanks so much for trying to help. And this would have worked too if I only need a 1/2"in dart instead of a 1 1/4" dart!

I added the 1/2" dart and was going to slash the pattern to rotate the dart but something just didn't look right to me. I decided to take it up to where I take sewing classes although I haven't taken a class in a couple of years. Luckily, my teacher happened to be there. She took one look at the muslin and explained I needed a much larger dart than I thought I did. It's been awhile since I've sewn a woven anything!

Anyway, she made something called a "Y cut" or something like that. It's the same principal as the usual FBA but the lines are drawn in different places. Once we got the dart done, we evaluated and she told me that the horizontal dart wasn't going to show on my fabric and i was going to cause grain problems if I tried to rotate it into the existing dart.

So, I ended up with the horizontal dart anyway but the jacket is going to fit a lot better!!!

Thanks for the help

Susan

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3247
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In reply to Susan C <<


Date: 11/4/12 11:36 PM

As I said, I'm no expert, but so glad you found one. Now you know what to do in the future. :)

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Susan C
Susan C
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 649
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 11/5/12 0:52 AM

No, you gave the right answer given the info I gave you. It's just that I needed a much larger dart. I don't know what I was thinking except that 1/2" in is what I put in my t-shirts so it didn't strike me as odd. It's been so long since I fitted anything woven that I forgot its the distance needed to make the garment get to center front that dictates the size of the dart.

I swear I'm going to make at least two of these jackets to make all this effort worth it! But I'm learning new things and being reminded of things I already new so I that's good, right?

Thanks again.

Susan

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
Intermediate
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
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In reply to Susan C <<


Date: 11/5/12 10:44 AM

You might like this Wordless Workshop I did

Susan C
Susan C
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 649
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 11/5/12 9:27 PM

Thank you

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