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Forum > Fitting Woes > Raised the armscye. Still having trouble raising arms. Now what? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Raised the armscye. Still having trouble raising arms. Now what?
Sleeve alteration
sewnotwork
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sewnotwork
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Date: 11/5/12 2:07 PM

I'm petite so I shortened the bodice 1 inch between shoulder and bust effectively raising the bust which was too low and also the armscye. I shortened the sleeve and changed the cap (took out extra ease). But now when I put it on I'm having trouble raising my arms to 90 degrees arms out. Can get probably 45 degrees. Not sure if that is normal for woven fabric. I have made so many sleeve muslins it's ridiculous. Next muslin alteration is to widen the sleeve, which will make sleeve cap shallower. Is this the right thing to do?
-- Edited on 11/5/12 4:59 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to sewnotwork <<


Date: 11/5/12 2:35 PM

I'm also having some sleeve issues, so I hope this thread really brings in some new ideas.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 11/5/12 4:19 PM

What are you sewing? Classic sleeve is built to allow you about 45 degrees anyway :))

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PetitePear
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In reply to sewnotwork <<


Date: 11/5/12 4:36 PM

So you can't raise your arm past 45deg at all or are you able to raise it but it pulls up the bodice and forms all sorts of drag lines everywhere that needed to be smoothed out later when you put down the arms? If it's the latter, I've never had any fitted woven sleeved dress/top that doesn't do this! As a teacher, I find that a bit of a problem so I usually stick with knit or cap/flutter sleeves (even cap sleeves can be problematic.)

Courtney Ostaff
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In reply to sewnotwork <<


Date: 11/5/12 4:48 PM

I think I'd try it both ways -- shallower and higher. If possible, ease-fit it by having someone else baste the sleeve in place as you wear the bodice.

sewnotwork
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sewnotwork
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Date: 11/5/12 4:54 PM

Sheer jacket

I'm making a sheer jacket.

sewnotwork
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sewnotwork
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 11/5/12 4:59 PM

Thanks it looks like I double posted so will delete this entry.

tigergirl
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In reply to PetitePear <<


Date: 11/6/12 1:26 AM

Quote: PetitePear
.. are you able to raise it but it pulls up the bodice and forms all sorts of drag lines everywhere that needed to be smoothed out later when you put down the arms? If it's the latter, I've never had any fitted woven sleeved dress/top that doesn't do this! As a teacher, I find that a bit of a problem so I usually stick with knit or cap/flutter sleeves (even cap sleeves can be problematic.)






I was wondering about this with a dress I'm currently making. They'll just have to be 'wing out' cap sleeves then because I detest that binding sensation and I expect to be able to have full movement in my clothes, much like I expect all of my shoes to be able to be worn all day (and into the night) without giving me grief (and yes, I do wear heels, high heels).

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to sewnotwork <<


Date: 11/6/12 7:55 AM

My brain is fuzzy because I haven't had my second cup of coffee this morning, but I've looked at your photos. The third one, with the sleeve set in, do you notice that the sleeve doesn't hang close to the body--that it sticks out? I also see that the bust dart on that side is high, but as a result of your shortening between the shoulder to bust. I think your problem occurred when you made the bodice shorter and removed the ease from the sleeve. Something occurred between the fold above the bust and removing the sleeve ease, thereby throwing the armscye curve off. An easier thing I think to have done would have been to raise the bust dart and leave the sleeves alone. You could also make a tuck, starting at CF then tapering to nothing at the armscye, (which in actuality is a dart) but the dart in the pattern is what I feel compensates for that, being an armhole dart.

I had to ask myself about about LCD: Length, Circumference, Depth in "Sagers Speak". And to me, what you think you need is not Length, but is actually Depth. When you have a Length issue, (you said you were 5'1") it's done below the bust, at the lengthen/shorten lines. Because that area is the "prairie" of the body; it doesn't go over slopes such as your bustline, and is based on a Shoulder to Waist measurement. Anything above the bust is a Depth issue, and thereby needs a dart/tuck as I mentioned. Then I looked at the dart, and realized. "Duh! There it is! That 'tuck'!"

It took me many years to realize the LCD thing; I too have your problem with a short Shoulder to Bust measurement because my shoulders roll forward but I'm 5'8" and have to add a little to the length--below the bustline.

HTH

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SandiMacD
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Date: 11/6/12 8:21 AM

You may need to play around with the armsyce more. Do you own a blouse that fits? Or can you try on a RTW blouse where the armhole fits well? If so take that circumference and use it to draft another muslin.
I am in the same boat. I am on muslin #6 right now. I spent a day trying on RTW and raising my arms and analyzing what gave me the most comfortable motion.
For me it needs to be set higher.
I am thinking now about making a pattern with a yoke shirt back so I can get better control of the shoulder area. Those types are much more comfortable for me to move (and look better on me) in then the one piece backs.

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