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sleeve cap using tie interfacing
how to use with 5/8" s/a
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Illinois USA
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Date: 11/7/12 1:50 PM

would like to try the tie interfacing method of creating a nicely gathered sleeve cap. however, Peggy Sagers video says to use a 3/8" seam allowance.

I've experimented with this on scrap fabric and it does gather nicely. She says this gathers but as a bonus also creates a sleeve head.

I've already sewn the jacket and the 2 piece sleeve using 5/8 and don't want to take a chance by cutting it down on both the jacket and the sleeve.

would I make the interfacing wider than the recommended 1"? if so, How would I place it on the sleeve cap - extend it over the edge (overhand beyond) by 1/4" or leave it against the edge as she directs if you're using the 3/8" s/a? then stitch at the 5/8" line as usual. I know to stitch the 5/8" s/a - I'm just not sure where to place the interfacing.

As you stretch and sew, the interfacing pulls back inside the edge when aligned with the edge because as your stitching, your pulling a bias strip with gets narrower as it stretches.

not quite sure the best way and hoping someone has experience with this method.

here is the article about how she does this.

The set in sleeve is made easy by using a 1 wide, 20 long bias strip to tie interfacing. The tie interfacing is
aligned to the edge of the sleeve starting at the front or back notch and basting the strip to the sleeve. As you are
basting, pull the tie interfacing taunt as you baste on the stitch line, from front notch to back notch or visa versa.
When completed, the sleeve cap will be eased up and ready to stitch the garment. Remember to always put the
sleeve down against the feed dogs and the jacket side should be face up.

here is a link: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/projects/series_200/208/Its_Sew_Easy_208-1.pdf

thanks for any and all advice
-susie

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/8/12 8:33 PM

The stitching line will be going almost down the center of the tie interfacing so you still want that. You want to line up your interfacing so your stitching will be on your seam line (or just barely inside it). Then use your 5/8.

BTW - I think one reason Peggy uses the 3/8 is because it is much more difficult to ease well with 5/8. What's your worry about cutting down the seam allowances? Your stitching line will stay in the same place so you mess up your sizing at all.

JEF

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/8/12 9:50 PM

20" is kind of long for most women, but no matter. It works perfectly well on 5/8"sas. I've been using this for years, it was in one of Sandra Betzina's early books.

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avatrx

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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 11/9/12 10:07 AM

I just bought a tailoring book from Abe Books and it does describe using a wool, cut on the bias for this technique. Not sure why she states 20" but if I start at one end I can always cut off the other end and use that for another sleeve once I have the first one done.

As for cutting down the s/a? It makes sense that the stitching line remains the same. I guess it's the thought of cutting something before I know it will work that intimidates me. I suppose I could cut back the sleeve s/a to 3/8" and then remember where to sew it on the jacket?

avatrx

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Illinois USA
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Posts: 574
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 11/9/12 10:08 AM

[QUOTE]20" is kind of long for most women, but no matter. It works perfectly well on 5/8"sas. I've been using this for years, it was in one of Sandra Betzina's early books.

just to clarify one point? Once I have the sleeve sewn in I can remove the basting stitch used to apply the interfacing?

nancy2001
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/9/12 2:06 PM

The Palmer/Pletsch book, Jackets for Real People is the best resource for learning how to insert a sleeve with tie interfacing. This book will also answer your other questions about interfacing and about inserting a separate sleeve header.


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