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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Modifying pattern for med weight coat to heavy weight?

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Modifying pattern for med weight coat to heavy weight?
Esmerelda Twinpalms

Esmerelda Twinpalms
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Date: 11/7/12 6:35 PM

I love this pattern Vogue 1212. It reminds me of those great Russian coats from Dr. Zhivago (dating myself). I've always wanted one. The pattern says it is for medium weight fabrics. Does anyone think it could work for a heavy coat weight fabric? I really want something WARM and heavy, with thinsulite interlining and the whole deal for winter. Any suggestions on whether the pattern could or should be modified to carry the weight? Or not?
-- Edited on 11/7/12 6:37 PM --

Fruzzle

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Date: 11/7/12 7:42 PM

I wouldn't hesitate to cut that in a heavy weight wool. BUT you'll need to make sure it fits. Could you pick up a cheap and heavy blanket from a thrift store for a muslin?

Esmerelda Twinpalms

Esmerelda Twinpalms
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In reply to Fruzzle <<


Date: 11/7/12 7:57 PM

Thanks. Great idea about the blanket!

I have never made a heavy winter coat before. I remember reading a step-by-step construction diary here 3-4 years ago, which really inspired me. Does anyone remember it who might point me to it? It had many great tips. Sorry, it's been awhile since I've been here and I don't know how to look for it.

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/7/12 11:54 PM

http://coatsewalong.blogspot.com/
I am going to make a winter coat also. I have yet to cut into my fabirc. The part that makes me nervous is "turn of cloth".
The above blog has lots of good imformation.

------
Ada

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Esmerelda Twinpalms <<


Date: 11/8/12 0:16 AM

I think it would be neat, but maybe kind of weighty on your shoulders. I think you should actually hold all that/any possible really thick and heavy wool (whatever you find that you think you might like for it) up to you first (like in the store before having it cut and having to pay for it) and make sure it will still drape like the coat in the picture does though, as if it stuck more straight out in A line shape from the bust down, and did not fold or drape there at all, (like the photo does) the effect would be different. I think that runching/gathering on the lower part of the sleeve would not runch/gather the same if it was real thick and heavy too, so try to bunch and gather up your heavier fabric like that, just in your hand even, before choosing it too, and see what happens, if you want to leave that gathered up part in the lower sleeve maybe?

PattyE
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PattyE  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/8/12 8:57 AM

I've made a few coats and I would suggest you look over the pattern and instructions well before buying fabric. Make sure your fabric will not be too thick for the details of the pattern such as anything needing turning (collars, belts, etc.) and take note of corners/seams/buttonholes that might end up being too thick with a heavier fabric. I try to use a simpler pattern with a thicker fabric. Good luck with your project.

Esmerelda Twinpalms

Esmerelda Twinpalms
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Date: 11/8/12 2:03 PM

Thanks for the link, Ada. That's what I was looking for! What an awesome group of coat makers! I was so inspired by digs' coat when I first saw back then. That's what put making a warm winter coat into my mind where it has been percolating for a few years. I note that her coat is made of wool flannel. So, maybe I don't need such a heavy fabric, what with interlining and lining?

@beauturbo - yes, I am concerned about weight. And agree that the sort of poofy sleeve overlay won't work in a heavy fabric. There is a simpler sleeve alternative with the pattern that I plan to use.

@PattyE -- the pattern arrived yesterday & I spent last night studying it. There is a back panel detail that I don't think would work in really heavy fabric either, but a simpler alternative is provided.

Maybe wool flannel is the way to go, with insulite interlining?

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