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I need a softer narrow hem
lulurose
lulurose
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Date: 11/9/12 1:54 PM

I'm working on some bias cut, half moon shaped, type of short sleeves. My fabric is a very soft drape. I don't want to use my hemmer foot (because of the bias). I'm afraid a narrow hem will stiffen the shape at the bottom/hem. I want to have the softest "flounce" to the sleeve as possible. Would it help if I lengthened my stitches? Or would I get a better result hand stitching? What kind of stitch would I use?
Btw, I don't own a serger :0(
TIA

CRUST
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Date: 11/9/12 1:56 PM

i suspect the lightest weight and most forgiving hem would be a single turn and coverstitch.

sarah in nyc

sarah in nyc
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In reply to lulurose <<


Date: 11/9/12 2:07 PM

How about a wide but shallow zig zag stitch? If you manipulate the fabric right it can become something of a rolled stitch. You zig on the fabric and zag off the fabric. It can be really beautiful and needs no fancy equipment. You can make the edge nearly invisible by matching the thread or make it decorative with a contrasting thread. it's my go to finish for chiffon.

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sarah in nyc
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marec
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Date: 11/9/12 2:07 PM

If you don't have a coverstitch machine, you could use some hem lace and hand stitch with a loose catch stitch. stitches illustrated

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DebbyS

DebbyS
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Date: 11/9/12 2:09 PM

Try either of these from La Sewista:

Kenneth King Hem

Baby Hem

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Debby

Doctor Sister

Doctor Sister  Friend of PR
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In reply to DebbyS <<


Date: 11/9/12 2:22 PM

I've always done a rolled hem by hand in this situation. But I just read the King hem from La Sewista. I'm so trying that next time. She has beautiful results. And although I really sort of enjoy hand sewing. There are so many other things to so I could give up hand rolled hems.
Sis.

Elona
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In reply to lulurose <<


Date: 11/9/12 2:28 PM

Here's one approach. Note that after turning the fabric under only once, the underside does have a raw edge--but that second row of stitching will keep it from fraying.

Here are a couple more very fine, delicate edge treatments.
-- Edited on 11/9/12 2:30 PM --

a7yrstitch
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In reply to lulurose <<


Date: 11/9/12 4:16 PM

Hand stitched rolled hems go quickly once you get into the rhythm.

I am fortunate in having an older Pfaff 1229 with an overlock stitch foot and attachment. It casts a beautiful and delicate edge on chiffons and other light or sheer fabrics. I often use that for the first pass and then fold that edge over and use the threads of the overlock stitch to anchor into to stitch a hidden flat hem.

If you have the overlock capability on your machine, be sure to practice on bias scraps to mimic the behavior of your sleeve. I tweak the tension just a bit so the appearance is almost more of a very tiny blanket stitch as opposed to a traditional looking overcast stitch. This is done either on the edge of the fabric or with the fabric barely turned under. It is not done with the bigger fold that you would use for a blind stitched hem.

With the fabric you describe and a hem/finish in an unstressed area I would use a single thread (not doubled) - no knots. And, I use shorter lengths of thread, perhaps three or four, or more, lengths for what you have described instead of one or two longer lengths. The beginnings can be somewhat loose hidden stitches and the ends can be buried and somewhat loose. You should never have any pulls interrupting the flow and drape of your fabric when you do this.

I have a serger and I still take the time for total or partial hand finishing on delicate items. Consider, too, how close this detail will be to your face. And always visible whether you are sitting at dinner or standing at a party.

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a7yrstitch
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 11/9/12 4:20 PM

Elona, I love the first finish in your second link and am watching for an opportunity to use it. It is a gorgeous finish and design detail.

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solosmocker
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Date: 11/9/12 4:34 PM

Here's a thought - if the sleeve edge is on the bias, how about just cutting it and letting flutter gently? You could even have two layers, the top one a little shorter than the bottom one. I am picturing this for a chiffon or voile type fabric. I wouldn't do this for a crepe or something of that weight. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

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