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Faux Wrap-style dress question
gramma b
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gramma b
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Subject: On-grain vs. Bias layouts? Date: 11/10/12 7:59 AM

What's the rule on bias cuts? I am seeing more bias patterns.
I laid out 2 similar Simplicity A-line wrap dress patterns, one bias and one regular, and they are the same, so WHY would you waste fabric in a bias cut?

How can you tell if a particular woven fabric will drape more on the bias?



-- Edited on 11/11/12 8:57 AM --

gramma b
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Date: 11/11/12 8:54 AM

Bump please.

beauturbo
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In reply to gramma b <<


Date: 11/11/12 11:13 AM

Don't know if any real rules, but I think most all woven fabric would look and feel and be more drapey cut on the bias.

If I could do either way,and already had my fabric and had enough to do either way, I might just hold it up to me to see which I liked better for it. I think if uncut fabric spread out open on the table or the floor and you grab one cut end of it at the salvage and cross it over it's self to the other selvage side, to make sort of a triangle there with that fold, then pick it up on the fold, and hold it to you, then you could get more of a better idea of how the skirt part it might hang on you, going either way.

You could also sort of hang it over a sofa or chair and then step way back to look at it that way too from a distance to see what it might look like if it was patterned.

But since it's a wrap dress, depending on the fabric, if it was not a solid, or busy print, and had like stripes or checks or something to match on the skirt part, and if that wrapped, then that might be a harder matching thing there too to try to figure out.

gramma b
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Date: 11/11/12 12:19 PM

One is an OOP, S 5190, a faux wrap that looks cute so you don't have to worry about the gap neckline and less fabric. The V neck just has cross bands that make it look like a wrap style.
No waist either, so could be used for a tunic. It is on the bias, altho the 2 main pattern pieces are just like a long v-neck A-line.
Only 2 reviews of it on here, which said it needed nipping in at the waist. Maybe' I'll do a muslin first 2 ways?

SandiMacD
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Date: 11/11/12 9:53 PM

It will drape differently if cut on the bias- a bit more movement. If not cut on the bias it may look a bit more tailored.

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KathleenS
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Date: 11/12/12 4:24 AM

A lot of fabrics will drape differently on the bias, but to different degrees. Something like a crepe will do it much more (better) than a cotton lawn. You can do what beauturbo suggested and hold it up diagonally and see what it does. In a fabric that really does the bias drape thing it will drop under its own weight, making the dress narrower, and hence cling and an A-line shape will become more of a nip in and flare out. (In the example you mentioned where the pattern pieces were pretty much the same size I would expect the bias one to turn out to fit smaller/tighter). For example, look at my review of McCalls 2029 skirt. The pattern pieces here are just A-line, but that isn't the effect when worn. Or look at the the photo of the bias skirt here. That is how bias hangs. No, it wouldn't be a waste of fabric IF that was the look you wanted. The dresses would turn out differently.

What fabric were you thinking of using?
-- Edited on 11/12/12 4:26 AM --

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