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FBA makes giant dart
what should I do with that 5" dart take-up?
barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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Ohio USA
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Date: 11/10/12 11:33 AM

I'm making what amounts to a Girl Scout blouse, Peter Pan collar & all, for a woman with a "shelf." From a styling point of view, princess lines are out. So now I have a 5" dart take up to deal with - 2.5 in of extra fabric after darting that almost overlaps the waistline - plus a very steep, pointy dart. Anyone have an approach to this problem? I know the dart has got to be split up, but I need to do it in the most unobtrusive way possible.

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Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to barbarahf <<


Date: 11/10/12 11:44 AM

The problem is with the unobtrusive part. From what your wrote you are going to divide the big dart into two darts. I would sew in one of the darts then drape the blouse on the person and see where the second dart wants to go. Sometime it will want to go right under the second dart and sometimes the second dart can be moved to the waist.
As far as the pointy dart problem I would defiently lower the dart points. The bigger the bust the father away from the bust point the dart should stop. Again draping in the dart is the best method. Hope that is an option?

------
Ada

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/10/12 11:46 AM

I do large FBAs and split my darts. I'll rotate part of the dart to either the shoulder or waist (or both) depending on the style of the shirt and drape of the fabric I'm using. (If you're using a drapey fabric, you can convert the dart to shoulder gathers and get a nice design detail out of it.)

If you still wind up with a lot of excess fabric at the bust dart, which it sounds like you might, you can always serge off the excess to bring the dart down to a reasonable size and reduce bulk.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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In reply to AdaH <<


Date: 11/10/12 12:06 PM

Dart points are already located properly for her bust. And I have her paper-tape form hanging right here, so draping is certainly an option. Thanks!

------
Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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In reply to michellep74 <<


Date: 11/10/12 12:08 PM

Never thought of shoulder gathers. It's a digital camo charmeuse (of all things), so gathers would make a great "girly" touch! The blouse is for a Girl Scout zombie hunter costume and I think the customer will get a kick out of the juxtaposition....

Thanks!

------
Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/10/12 12:16 PM

I asked this same question and a very nice fellow sewist wrote a blog post about it here Communing With Fabric, mammoth dart

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 11/11/12 12:02 PM

Thanks for the link. That's a very thoughtful post and I'm eager to read more of her blog.

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Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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Ohio USA
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Date: 11/11/12 12:05 PM

I appreciate all the help, folks! I have moved part of the dart to the shoulder for a bit of shirring and part to the waistline. Getting ready to redraw the sliced, diced and taped tissue into something I can pin to the dress form to estimate success. My customer also has a tummy, so I'm not entirely sure how the waist dart will work out, but it never hurts to try.

------
Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 11/24/12 2:41 PM

You are moving in the right direction.
If she has a tummy ,you might consider a wider waist, and that will make perhaps your huge (now devided)dart bit smaller too.

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