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How to finish seams in silk chiffon below invisible zipper
prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
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Date: 11/10/12 6:51 PM

I posted this in Bridal and Formalwear, but haven't received any responses.

So I'm making Vogue 9668 (view C but with a long A line skirt) from an Indian silk sari, which is the texture of silk habotai. I've underlined the bodice and midriff to stabilize the fabric (the bodice and midriff lining are also fully interfaced for structure) but am only lining the skirt so that I can maintain the light floaty texture of the fabric. I'm not sure of the best way to address the back seam and zipper. The skirt sides will be french seamed since the fabric is very light and loves to fray. The fashion fabric on its own can not support the weight of the zipper, so I'm wondering if there is a clean method of inserting the zipper to the fashion fabric and lining while leaving both free (and neatly finished) below the zipper? One of my nicer cocktail dresses made of crinkle silk chiffon is serged below the zipper for a few inches and then transitions to french seams. I'm wondering if there is a better way though? Also my lining is a contrasting color to my fashion fabric, and it would show if I inserted the zipper into the lining and left the fashion fabric free.

SquishSews
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Date: 11/10/12 7:40 PM

The current Threads magazine has an article about a black lace Dior dress(it's on the cover) that talks about some of the "secrets" to construction. There's a slip with an extrA light (size 3) zipper, then the lace dress has another zip. Maybe something in the article though? I've never used silk chiffon ...

SquishSews
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Date: 11/10/12 7:43 PM

PS there are short slot zippers at the wrists of the dress and the article says that center back placket was stabilized with strips of beige chiffon under the seam allowances to avoid a dark shadow on either side of the zipper. It's (the zipper) machine stitched to the seam allowance then hand-sewn from the face side with running stitches; the edges of the zipper tape are sewn to the seam allowances with fell stitches.

JudyHan
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Date: 11/11/12 8:43 AM

yikes!!

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SandiMacD
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Date: 11/12/12 5:54 AM

Just came across this in another forum.
http://www.etsy.com/listing/89080088/red-lace-zippers-supplies-trim-diy?ga_search_query=lace%2Bzipper

It's an exposed lace zipper- another design option for consideration.

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a7yrstitch
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In reply to prostheticsgirl <<
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Date: 11/12/12 11:13 AM

I'm not sure that I have thought through this enough, but here's a thought.

As pertains to the zipper.
Use the zipper to close the lining of the skirt only and both layers of the midriff, lining and fashion fabric.

The midriff. Use an extra fastening support under and in addition to the zipper so that the zipper functions, in the midriff area, more to close the fabric; so the zipper will not bear the full burden of pulling the garment together in this fitted area.

On the skirt. Consider leaving the fashion fabric finished and open with the zipper in the lining only. Tiny hooks and eyes could be used to pull the two fabric edges together.

Rereading your post I have seen the last line....the contrast between the fashion fabric and the lining. Okay, that complicates things.

I'd have to have fabric in hand to decide how to handle that. What I might consider.......

A single layer edge finished under placket on the skirt to cross over the zipper and fasten at the bottom edge of the midriff between the fashion layer of the skirt and the lining.

Choosing an area of the skirt lining to face over with the fashion fabric so an open outer layer would not reveal the contrast fabric - it would reveal the overlayed area.

If those don't work because they might change the density of the color saturation of the lighter top layer, then consider the next thought.

Next thought......

If I was starting from the cutting table, I might.
Cut the back skirt top layer just a tiny bit bigger; 1/4 to 1/2 inch on each side. I would depend upon the lining for the just right fit at the waist and over the top hip. I would ease in the extra allowance on each side so that the stress in the back zipper would burden the lining and not the top layer.

Would stitch the back center seam together ending below the zipper. Turn each seam allowance (independently on each respective side) under and use a hidden stitch down the whole length to uniformly finish the edge. Using a delicate stitch, attach the edge of the fashion fabric to the zipper atop the lining fabric. I would still leave a little portion open at the bottom of the zipper. The extra ease should remove some tension from the fashion fabric where you have attached it to the zipper.

Lovely dress. So much of this is dependent upon the fabric so one last thought - the airy fabric and the style of the dress might lend itself to a floaty overlay or 'mini train' that drops from below the midriff at the back.


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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to prostheticsgirl <<
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Date: 11/12/12 12:09 PM

Related discussion from Artisan's Square

Grainline, a little bit of technical help to consider.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

chgh
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Date: 11/19/12 7:23 PM

I don't know if this really helps, but I have recently sewn a garment in indian silk that was probably considerably thinner than yours. I used the lining as double with the silk the whole garment. This way there was less tare anywhere. It would solve the problem with the zipper. On the inner side you could simply handsew on a strip of thin silk to cover the edge of the zipper.

In my case I used a very contrasting colour (bright yellow) for the lining, since I didn't want to take any chances with lighter parts of the edge pattern getting dull (the main color of the silk was dark indigo). It would have made no difference at the zipper. In the end I decided to go with another method of fastening anyways. The zipper seemed abit too heavy. Not a material you would want having to rip up if the zipper happened to get bulged either.

/ CG

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