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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Thurlows--fit me, please! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Thurlows--fit me, please!
Made a complete wearable muslin--need pointers
Gyount
Gyount
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Date: 11/11/12 7:31 PM

I made a partial muslin for these a few weeks ago and ended up going down a size from the original muslin. I cut an 8 in the final version. I am not loving them. They feel fine, but just look... Anywhere from meh to not good depending on front/back. I'm trying to figure out if I should try going down another size or if the pattern just isn't a good fit for me.

Pics are on Flickr starting here Photos


I think the rear looks very unflattering, like, really square or something. The front crotch looks long in the pictures to me, though I didn't notice that it felt long/baggy. The hips and upper thigh look too big to me. I know the fly looks really bad. It was my first time to put one in (and my third zipper ever!), so hopefully I can do better with that in the future. :D

I do like that I had minimal gaping in the back with these since that's always a problem for me. Can anyone tell me what I did to cause the diagonal lines on the back waistband I'm getting on one side?

This pattern is supposed to be generously cut through the thigh. Thick thighs is a problem I have, so I thought these would be perfect, but maybe I don't need THAT much ease there?

My fabric is a fairly heavy stretch denim (maybe the stretch is contributing to my problems? They aren't tight enough to be utilizing the stretch though..).

Thanks in advance for any feedback on how to make round 2 of these better!
-- Edited on 11/12/12 1:45 PM --

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/12/12 9:51 AM

Can't get to the photo.
Please post a direct link.

GlButterfly

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In reply to sewsally <<


Date: 11/12/12 12:59 PM

Photos

While you're there, check out the photos of the darling little boy.

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I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

Gyount
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 11/12/12 1:47 PM

Quote: GlButterfly
Photos



While you're there, check out the photos of the darling little boy.

Aww, thanks for the compliment and fixing my link.
Nancy K
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Date: 11/12/12 5:11 PM

I know that young women like low riding pants, but it is much easier to fit a plain pair of pants sans pockets going to at least the waist. That gives them something to hang on, ie your waist, and after you get the fit right you can cut them as low as you want.
Pants are not an easy fit for some of us and some of it is the draft and some of is our bodies.
I highly recommend taking Sandra Betzina's pants fitting class on Craftsy.com. It comes with her princess seam pant pattern. It's easy to fit and she shows you how to transfer your changes to different patterns.

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Cosmotis
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Date: 11/12/12 9:15 PM

I just finished up my first pair of Thurlows this weekend, and I hear ya sister! I ended up cutting the 4, since that's what the pattern suggested for my measurements... but I really, really need to start paying more attention to the finished garment measurements because I ended up taking them in around the upper hips, and then tapering the legs down a bit more. After wearing them all day today, I realize that they are still just too big... even around the wasit. I made mine out of a non-stretch grey pin-striped "Marc Jacobs" 100% cotton bottom weight fabric that is not as thick as denim, but not lightweight either. It doesn't have any drape, and if I'd paid a lot of money for something MJ made of it, I would not be happy! It wrinkles and is hard to iron, so my fabric choice is one of my problems. All that said, I think the pattern is fantastic, and am willing to keep working on the fit. I think yours also might be too big for you! As I'm wearing mine while typing this and looking at your photos, I think you could take in some of the bagginess from the area just below your rear, at the back of the thighs. That's where I can grab the most fabric on my pair and am now officially considering my pair a "wearable muslin" and am going back to the drawing board.

Here's a thought on the wrinkles on the waistband: When you sew up the back seam, once you get past the intersection of the fashion fabric to the lining, you have to angle the seam line back out and not continue in a straight line (does that make sense?) so your lining will end up being the same size as the waistband. If you sewed a straight line, your lining waistband will be smaller that the fashion fabric, and will pull. Just a suggestion? It took me a while to figure that out, since I don't think she mentions that in the instructions (or I missed them!)

Hope some of this helps! (And sorry for the long post!)

Gyount
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 11/12/12 9:22 PM

Quote: Nancy K

I highly recommend taking Sandra Betzina's pants fitting class on Craftsy.com. It comes with her princess seam pant pattern. It's easy to fit and she shows you how to transfer your changes to different patterns.


Thanks for the tip--I saw the thread about that class and it sounds. Between working and taking care of my littles I don't have very many chunks of time to sit and watch lessons. Maybe I can get to it this summer.
Gyount
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In reply to Cosmotis <<


Date: 11/12/12 9:28 PM

Quote: Cosmotis

Here's a thought on the wrinkles on the waistband: When you sew up the back seam, once you get past the intersection of the fashion fabric to the lining, you have to angle the seam line back out and not continue in a straight line (does that make sense?) so your lining will end up being the same size as the waistband. If you sewed a straight line, your lining waistband will be smaller that the fashion fabric, and will pull. Just a suggestion? It took me a while to figure that out, since I don't think she mentions that in the instructions (or I missed them!)



Hope some of this helps! (And sorry for the long post!)

Sorry to hear you're having Thurlow troubles too! I REALLY like the look of he pattern and I know the shape will be flattering to my body if I can just get the proportions right. I feel like I'm just flying blind picking a size since I thought originally I needed a 10, but now even the 8s seem too big. Picking a pattern size just seems like a very mysterious process right now.

I think you've diagnosed my waistband wrinkles exactly! I remember wondering why the stitch line on the pattern looked so curved. Thanks!
Cosmotis
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Date: 11/12/12 9:36 PM

I think my problem is that I don't really know exactly how much ease I like or need. Once I figure that out, it will be the key to all my sewing troubles (haha!)

Yay on the waistband! Good luck!

LauraTS
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 11/12/12 11:15 PM

Looking at the back view, I just want to hoist your waistband up, which I think means you've got too much room in the rear of the pattern and not enough rear in your rearto fill it out. I would look into a flat bottom alteration, or choose a pattern that drafts for a less ample bottom. The side and front views, as much as I can see them, look pretty good. Remember, this is a trouser style that's supposed to hang from the hips, not a close-fitting jeans style.

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