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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Grading a pattern

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Grading a pattern
robbandbec
robbandbec
Intermediate
IN USA
Member since 3/24/11
Posts: 7
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 11/11/12 8:00 PM

Sooooo...

I purchased a vintage pattern, could only find it in a size 12. I need a 16/18. So I follow the lovely grading directions I found here and on a linked Threads article. I felt in the back of my mind the entire time that I was lying to myself about my real size since I'm still battling baby weight from my 10-month old.
So the grading turned out well....except for being a little snug. Not too snug all around, just not comfortable ease.

I'm a returning sewer after several years absence, and never really got beyond basics anyway. So I have a few questions:

Will decreasing the seam allowance to 3/8" be okay? My fabric is pin wale corduroy which I will fully line with a cotton shirting, so the seams will all be enclosed.

This decrease will yield me 3/4". Is this a helpful amount at all, or is it really not that much?

Does a lining take up some of your ease, necessitating adding some additional ease on top of the amount I already need?

The pattern only calls for small front and back facings, I am adding the lining to give it a more finished look.

Thanks for your help.

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 2588
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In reply to robbandbec <<


Date: 11/11/12 8:23 PM

I guess you're asking to save yourself a ton of work if it won't make a difference.

I can't answer your question but I can encourage you to go for it. At the very least, you'll learn a lot. That's worth time and money right there.

Also - many patterns use a 1/4" seam allowance.

Would going doing to 1/4" net you any more ease?

Could you post an image of the pattern or post a link to it? I think if people could see what pattern you're trying to sew, you might get more helpful advice.

I hope your project turns out well!

------
Mary


robbandbec
robbandbec
Intermediate
IN USA
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Date: 11/11/12 9:38 PM

Here is a pic, I think. It is the jumper only.

Jumper
-- Edited on 11/11/12 9:44 PM --

robbandbec
robbandbec
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IN USA
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In reply to robbandbec <<


Date: 11/11/12 9:46 PM

So I can't seem to get the image link to work. I is a jumper, simplicity 9525, if anyone wants to know.

GwenH
GwenH
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CA USA
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Date: 11/12/12 0:43 AM

Simp.icity 9525

Generally if you just want an image, you can right click on it, open properties, and copy the address. There are some websites that don't allow this, so it's not you if it doens't work in some places.
-- Edited on 11/12/12 0:46 AM --

oldsewandsew

oldsewandsew  Friend of PR
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WA USA
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In reply to robbandbec <<


Date: 11/12/12 10:41 AM

There is no reason you can't do a 1/4" seam, but if it's snug, that 3/4" man not be enough. However as someone already said, you'll learn a bit more about your body, and also more about how you like your clothes to fit.
If you want to line it with something, use something slippery - not cotton shirting. Cotton shirting will stick to the clothes you have underneath, plus it WILL take up a bit of room. If you use something slippery (like a polyester blouse weight, the room it takes up will be minimal, and it will slide over your undergarments and your body more readily. Good Luck!

Patti B
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Patti B  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
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In reply to robbandbec <<


Date: 11/12/12 11:00 AM

Oh, been there, done that! Another thing to consider-- if you are thinking about opening the seams anyway, what about inserting another strip of fabric along the side seams? If the bodice fits, a long skinny triangle would give you some extra room further down. I think you said it is corduroy? If so, I'd make this save a design feature by either top stitching the side seams or using the cords horizontally. Just another idea for the hopper...

------
Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

PetitePear
PetitePear
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In reply to robbandbec <<


Date: 11/12/12 12:29 PM

If your pattern originally has 1/2" allowance, then ignore the rest of this paragraph where I'm assuming that it has the standard 5/8". If there are 3 seams (two sides and a back), the change from 5/8" to 3/8" seam allowance should give you 1.5" (1/4 inch on each side of the seam, 1/2" each seam, so 1.5" total). That should make a difference. If you want even more 1/4" SA will give you 3/4" on each seam so 2.25" overall.

I agree with picking a slippery lining. A garment with slippery lining can feel much looser than one without and you won't need as much ease.

Mc Donna
Mc Donna  Friend of PR
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In reply to Patti B <<


Date: 11/13/12 10:23 AM

Quote:
If so, I'd make this save a design feature by either top stitching the side seams or using the cords horizontally.


I just saw a similar seam treatment in RTW this past weekend. There was a strip on each side where the cords were horizontal and ruched. If I remember correctly, it was baby cord that was used, so it might not be such a good idea on say, a wide wale, etc.
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