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Understanding ease
lulurose
lulurose
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Date: 11/13/12 11:20 AM

I'm trying to wrap my head around the concept of 'ease'.
If I take my favorite blouse and I'm able to pinch an inch at both side seams, does this mean I have 4 inches of ease?
AdaH
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AdaH
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Date: 11/13/12 12:03 PM

Yes that means you have 4" of ease in your blouse.
Knowing how much ease you like makes life so much easier when trying new patterns. My favorite amount of ease in a blouse is 3".

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Ada

Nancy K
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Date: 11/13/12 12:12 PM

Yes. There are two kinds of ease; wearing ease and design ease. Wearing ease is the amount needed beyond your measurements so that you can move. Design ease is what's added to that to get the style designed.

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lulurose
lulurose
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Date: 11/13/12 4:35 PM

Ok, thank you.

So, I understand wearing ease in the body of a blouse, how about the upper body. Say when I move my arms forward or upwards. Is my ability to move contributed to shoulder seam ease, or ease in the chest and back? Or does the ability to move comfortably all in the armholes?

I've been trying on lots of clothes from my closet and comparing them to items I've sewn. I can't quite figure out why some fit and have more room to move, than others. Especially when the ease and measurements are close and the fabric is similar.
DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 11/13/12 4:46 PM

Sometimes (especially when it comes to being able to move your arms) it's more about fit than ease.

I have an issue with narrow shoulders - which means the point of the shoulder on the garment is usually an inch or more outside where it should be. If there is a lot of ease in the armscye or sleeve, it doesn't restrict my movement. But if there's not, it pulls funny across my high bust or back if I try to move my arms. If/when I alter the shoulder, then the pulling stops.

It's counter intuitive that being too large would make a garment pull, but that's what happens. And it will pull regardless of how much give or stretch there is in the fabric. It will look different, but bad either way (stiff or stretchy).
Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 11/13/12 9:10 PM

Quote: lulurose
Ok, thank you.



So, I understand wearing ease in the body of a blouse, how about the upper body. Say when I move my arms forward or upwards. Is my ability to move contributed to shoulder seam ease, or ease in the chest and back? Or does the ability to move comfortably all in the armholes?



I've been trying on lots of clothes from my closet and comparing them to items I've sewn. I can't quite figure out why some fit and have more room to move, than others. Especially when the ease and measurements are close and the fabric is similar.

I like it how you are asking all the right questions General ease is distributed between back, front and armscye, but not only. Some of it is also added to the back length, shoulder length (like in coats for example). Your ability to move your arms depends on the correct position and size of the armscye, correct amount of ease at the back, sleeve head height and sleeve head ease

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Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD
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Date: 11/14/12 6:16 AM

The inch pinch on each side was 2" ease but how much was design and how much was fit is questionable. Fit ease is in relation to size. A thin person may need 1/2 to 1 inch ease when sitting or bending while a heavier person may need 3-4 inches of fit ease.
Design ease is used to make the fabric drape or hang like the pattern indicates. It has a relationship to the style of the garment.
Design ease is not always present. So when you pinched 2 inches it may have been just fit ease (that is taken up with bending or sitting) or a combination of fit and design ease (if shaped to drape or flow).
HTH
-- Edited on 11/14/12 6:20 AM --

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