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Need help with men's shirt
tateelliott

tateelliott
Member since 4/16/08
Posts: 235
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 11/14/12 11:11 AM

I am making a Kwik Sew 3422 shirt for myself. I've made an XL from this pattern before, but now I'm making an XXL and I've got a problem. The shoulder seam is way too wide, it's hanging a couple of inches down my arm. I tried on the older XL shirt and noticed, for the first time, that its shoulder seam was also hanging down my arm, but not as bad.

I'm thinking of moving the shoulder seam in, but won't that change the armhole? If I bring in the armhole also, how do I adjust the rest of the pattern out to be XXL to fit around my stomach?

I'll post a photo of the XL shirt. I made it to wear to a meeting of Santas, we call this "Santa casual."

Thanks for any help.

Tate

-- Edited on 11/14/12 11:12 AM --

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Kathi R
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Date: 11/14/12 11:21 AM

If the shoulders on the XL fit correctly, you can just alter the pattern to provide more room in the body of the shirt. The easiest way would be to use the XXL lines for the pattern from the bottom of the armhole down. In other words, use the sleeve cap for XL, but extend the width of the sleeve to XXL, use the shoulders for XL but extend (at the bottom of the armhole) to the XXL lines for the body. The net effect will be to keep the neck and shoulders at the XL size, but provide some extra room in the body.

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Date: 11/14/12 7:16 PM

Maybe you need the smaller size plus the adjustment discussed here?

Full belly adjustment
marymary86
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marymary86
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Date: 11/14/12 7:23 PM

Santa casual - too funny!

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Mary


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In reply to RMJ

Date: 11/14/12 8:20 PM

Quote: RMJ
Maybe you need the smaller size plus the adjustment discussed here?



Full belly adjustment

The male version of an FBA!!!

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tateelliott

tateelliott
Member since 4/16/08
Posts: 235
Skill: Intermediate
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Subject: Need help with mens shirt Date: 11/15/12 9:29 PM

Thanks to everyone's replies. RMJ, the discussion you linked to was helpful, plus it led to other discussions on this topic. Someone said that this adjustment is also called the maternity adjustment. This led to someone recommending David Coffin's book Shirtmaking. Someone needs to give me a dope slap, because I own a copy of that book. I just hadn't looked at it in a while.

Tate

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