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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > deepening the shoulder seam

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deepening the shoulder seam
can I just move it up?
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/14/12 6:17 PM

I put together yet another jacket. The sleeves droop off the shoulder even with a 1" shoulder pad.

I cut the sleeves pretty long, so if there is a way to move the sleeve seam up about 1.25" - I think the jacket would be OK.

Is there a good way to do that or should I just start over? I've already serged the collar where it attaches, but the sleeves are set in but not serged. just sewn.....

I don't have a good way of submitting a photo. I'll try, but for now does my question make sense?

PetitePear
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Date: 11/14/12 7:47 PM

I don't know whether you'll be able to cut the armscye in closer (that's what you want to do, right?). DId you try putting the pattern over the piece and see? What I do with RTW blouses whose shoulders are too wide is put in some ruching or vertical tucks/pleats across the shoulder seam to take it in and make it look like a design element. But if your jacket is thick, that might not work either.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/14/12 7:56 PM

I understand you are wanting to move the sleeve cap more toward your shoulder seam, right? I did this on a woman's RTW jacket, and it does work, as long as the sleeve isn't gathered.

Rip out the cap portion down about 3" on either side of the shoulder seam and try tucking the cap into the seam allowance to see how things are going to look. If you have some gathering when you do this, you might want to release more of the sleeve and allow the gathers to fall toward the sleeve seam under the arm.

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avatrx

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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 11/14/12 10:13 PM

The shoulder on the jacket is too wide and hangs over my shoulder. I'm trying to shorten the shoulder seam to pull up the sleeve so that the seam where the jacket connects to the sleeve is in the right place. I apparently have narrow shoulders compared to the average person. It's a surprise to me. I'm 5'10+ and have always figured everything on me was bigger or longer than normal.. My legs are longer, my back waist length in 18", my inseam in 35.5, my arms are longer.

But apparently, based on what I've been able to read about shoulders, the average is 5". Mine are 4.25 and 4.5 as measured by a professional a year or so ago.

And I thought making and fitting pants was hard. I thought making a top or jacket would be much easier. Maybe I'm trying too hard to get it just right and that small amount isn't a big deal?

Nancy K
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In reply to avatrx <<
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Date: 11/15/12 6:57 PM

You need to make a muslin and determine where you shoulder point really is. It should be maybe a fingers width past your shoulder bone. The other thing I am feeling reading your post is that you jump into finishing the seam before you try on the jacket. You should be basting and trying on clothing so that you can easily make adjustments as you sew. Fit as you sew is, after fitting the pattern or making a muslin the most important part of sewing. You can't just assume that it's going to fit without alterations. When you buy clothing you try on lots of garments before you find one that fits you well. You can't do that with a pattern so you have to fit as you sew

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sewsally
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Date: 11/15/12 7:57 PM

Unsew the sleeve except the underarm.
Reposition sleeve farther in and pin. That should tell if it will work. It should. I do this for ready to wear.

avatrx

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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 11/16/12 4:18 AM

Quote: Nancy K
You can't just assume that it's going to fit without alterations. When you buy clothing you try on lots of garments before you find one that fits you well. You can't do that with a pattern so you have to fit as you sew

I actually do try to fit it as I go, but apparently estimating the seam width, even though it's pinned - is something I'm not good at. I even hand basted one sleeve and thought it was OK, til I got both of them sewn on and realized that they were still droopy.

I had hand basted and pinned the shoulder pad in place.

I guess I had never thought about how one tries on several RTW items in an effort to get one that fits correctly. I've never heard anyone put it that way before but that makes TONS of sense.

I have a dress form that I found on Craig's list that is pretty close to me, but I never measured the shoulder width. I had been professionally measured a year or so ago and that is where I came up with the shoulder width. My shoulders almost always are more narrow than the patterns. That's why I thought the FBA was going to work for me.

I have yet to attempt a Sager's jacket pattern. I know she sizes by a finished measurement of something you like since she believes (and rightly so) that as you gain padding, your bone structure doesn't get any bigger. She said in a webcast that she used to design for JC Penney? I thought that was interesting because most of their clothes fit me fairly well except for the back waist length and sometimes sleeve length. Shoulders etc always fit well.

I've always been fairly easy to fit in tops. Just get a tall and I'm good to go. I'm not complaining, but it sure would be nice to have someone to help 'fit' me - in person - on just ONE thing. Then I could use that as a template.

I'm going to continue to get this basic top to fit. It has no darts, no shaping - nothing. This will be an attempt to get the shoulders right.

I'd be completely at a loss if it weren't for all of you on PR, but I am feeling like a pest.
Marilly
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Date: 11/16/12 5:09 AM

To see the alteration in flat pattern and on garment in action, check out Lena's post here:

Sleeve and shoulder shortening by Lena

avatrx

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In reply to Marilly <<


Date: 11/16/12 8:51 AM

That what exactly what Iwas looking for. I'm going to try it.

Thanks!

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