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Forum > Fitting Woes > SBA princess seams, back of neck closure, no shoulders/sleeves ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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SBA princess seams, back of neck closure, no shoulders/sleeves
beginner question
MaTrish
MaTrish
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Date: 11/17/12 11:35 PM

I'm new to PR and a beginner level sewist.

I'm working on my first real fitted pattern. It is Project Runway by Simplicity 2212. The bodice of the pattern has princess seams and an invisible side zip.

My measurements are 32 (barely) bust (without bra), 26 waist, 36 hips.

This bodice has a low back and buttons at the back of the neck, so I will not be wearing a bra (which is how I fix these problems normally LOL). According to the package I should use size 8 (31.5") or 10 (32.5") for bust measurements and size 12 for waist and hip measurements. I will be making a muslin on this dress first.

I know the term "small bust adjustment" and have read some tutorials, but I do not know how to apply it here. Should I cut out on the 12 and try to skim down the bust since I have two of three measurements on that size? What about it decreasing the waist measurement?

Does anyone happen to know a princess seam/sba tutorial that might help? Or any advise?

Thanks so much in advance for taking the time to read through my questions. I'm looking forward to trying this pattern!

GlButterfly

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Date: 11/17/12 11:52 PM

Wow--that's quite a pattern for a new sewer. You are brave. A 12 will be too large for you would be my guess. Measure the pattern and see which comes the closest. I would do the adjusting at the princess seam lines. The SBA is for really small cups and many just forget them. You could trim the seam a bit in that area.

Did you check the reviews to find out if anyone has made this pattern?

That's about all that I can contribute. Maybe someone else will come along and give more info. :)

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MaTrish
MaTrish
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Date: 11/19/12 0:13 AM

GlButterfly, thanks the suggestions. :)

I have made up the muslin and pinned out lots of excess on the side seams and pinned a good bit under the bust on the princess seam and then less on the princess seam as it goes around the bust area headed toward the underarm.

1. Is the princess seam beginning at the waist supposed to fall directly under the middle of the breast? I'm not sure if I'm lining it up correctly.

2. Also, the deep v of the bodice seams to be gaping a bit...I know it is something I've done or not done. Maybe pinning in the middle where the two bodice pieces come together??

3. Should I continue with making the lining on this mock up? Should I try to fix this part of the problem first? This is my very very first time trying to alter a pattern.

I've taken some muslin in-side out pics if that helps anyone with suggestions.




-- Edited on 11/19/12 0:14 AM --

SVN
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SVN
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Date: 11/19/12 9:21 AM

Is 32" your full bust or underbust? An SBA is for a small cup size, which doesn't seem to be your issue (from the picture). Measure your underbust and then your full bust - if the difference is 1" or less, then you need an SBA. I think you probably won't need one.
In any event, don't do an SBA on princess seams... just pin-baste and adjust the seam itself to perfectly mirror your body.

SVN
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SVN
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In reply to MaTrish <<


Date: 11/19/12 9:22 AM

Regarding the gaping on the chest, pin out a tuck on the edge that tapers to nothing at the armhole.

MaTrish
MaTrish
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In reply to SVN <<


Date: 11/19/12 9:42 AM

Thanks SVN for your suggestions. There is more than an 1" between full bust and underbust. Thanks for that tip.

It is a new day and a new pot of coffee, so I'll be attacking this again at the seams per your suggestion!

ETA: The pic shows where I've already pinned the pixies out of this bodice.
-- Edited on 11/19/12 9:58 AM --

SVN
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In reply to MaTrish <<
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Date: 11/19/12 4:31 PM

Great pinning..! Now pin a tuck (pinch out all the vertical excess fabric) on the neckline and taper that tuck to nothing at the armhole. That will get rid of the gaping. Transfer the amount to your pattern and then re-cut your fabric.
I suggest you purchase one and only one fitting book - the one by Sarah Veblen. She shows you a methodical way to approach fitting. Anything else is guess work, ESPECIALLY when you're starting out.
It will be $20 very well spent.

Spaiyq
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Date: 11/20/12 7:50 PM

My measurements are similar to yours and i make up an 8! I think you also started with too large of a size...

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MaTrish
MaTrish
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In reply to Spaiyq <<


Date: 11/21/12 6:16 PM

Spalyq,

I fiddled and fiddled with the 12 bodice, but ended up making an 8. You are right, It worked great! I have started with the real fabric - putting the lining in the bodice now. Boning and invisible zipper is next.

MaTrish
MaTrish
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Date: 11/21/12 10:58 PM

So, I mostly finished the dress. There are issues: some pulling at the waist and the bodice isn't perfect. I need to move the buttons on the neck of the halter. That will fix alot of the problems in the bodice. BUT, I Learned So Much!!! It was fun, but I'm not going to work with satin for a long while. I did lots of french seams, but it was a little bit of a pain.

I'm still going to do the belt that came with the pattern (in brown satin), but thought I'd post the progress for you gals that helped me.

I'll do a proper pattern review when I'm 100% done with tweeking.

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