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Message Board > Fitting Woes > French dart ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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French dart
Too long on a large bust
waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 292
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Date: 11/18/12 7:20 PM

I have been making a Silhouette pattern 115,Anne's Top and having trouble with the french dart.

I have a large bust (E cup) and know that the dart should end further away from my bust point but no matter what it wants to form and finish very close to it. If I don't take it high enough I have extra fabric causing wrinkles.

Can anyone suggest a reason for this? I will add that this has happened not just on this pattern but on any that has a vertical type dart.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

sewme47
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sewme47
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IL USA
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Date: 11/18/12 7:32 PM

I also have a large bust, and also had problems with Silhouette's french darts....they are hard to get "just right" especially in knits. Maybe it's because I'm plus-sized everywhere, not just at the bustline. Anyway, I now rotate french darts to high up on the side seam, just under the armhole. This works great for me! hth

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to waikikimum <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 11/18/12 8:28 PM

The bust point on a Silhouette pattern covers a 3" radius, so anywhere you move the vertical portion of that dart, would be okay.

Although I'm not as full busted as you, I too have trouble with vertical darts as well as French darts and I move the dart tip up, due to my "ski slope" chest.

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waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 292
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Date: 11/18/12 10:15 PM

Thank you both for your replies.
Sewme47, I am plus sized everywhere too and I found that after doing the french dart the fabric still wanted to form a horizontal dart at the bust line from the side seam.

Miss Fairchild thanks for reminding me of the 3" radius, I think I just got stuck on the idea that the dart should finish a lot sooner on a large bust. I think when using a vertical dart I will definitely need to add a second dart somewhere else.
To complicate my fit issues I am a short, plus sized, large busted and curvy girl so there are a lot of fit issues to fix in a short vertical space....

Apart from this dart issue I actually really liked the pattern and the straight forward easy instructions. I also enjoy watching Peggy's webcasts and have learnt a lot.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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VA USA
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In reply to waikikimum <<


Date: 11/19/12 12:22 PM

Do you perhaps just need a bigger dart? Can you pinch that extra "want to be a dart" fabrib into the dart and have the top look roughly right? If you can, then you just try a bigger dart. You may need to shorten the back since more dart uptake will shorten your front side seam.

JEF

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