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Forum > Fitting Woes > Is this empire waist low enough? ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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Is this empire waist low enough?
Not sure whether to add length
westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/19/12 12:13 PM

I need a second opinion! I'm making a top from a 1970s dress pattern. It has a curved empire waist seam (here is the pattern illustration).

Here is a photo of me in the muslin I made this weekend. (Also my first successful FBA, which I am THRILLED with.)

From the side shot, the empire waist looks OK, but in the front-on shot I wonder if it's a little high at centre front. What do you think?
-- Edited on 11/19/12 12:13 PM --

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LauraTS
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LauraTS
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Date: 11/19/12 3:01 PM

I think you're right, it needs to be lower at CF. As a fellow busty person, I always try to get empire seams to fall below the actual boobs, i.e. where the bottom of your bra band is with a well-fitting bra. You might need to adjust the curve of the seam to be a bit less curvy, since where it hits at the side seam and on the back looks fine.

ETA, I should have said the fit looks really good; congrats!
-- Edited on 11/19/12 3:03 PM --

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rivergum
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In reply to westmoon
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Date: 11/19/12 3:12 PM

Laura is quite right, but a higher seam will make the bust look smaller. Just a thought.

Here is an example of what I mean. Same bodice on both dresses, but on the left the empire seam is higher.

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AdaH
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AdaH
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In reply to westmoon

Date: 11/19/12 3:13 PM

Congrats on the FBA. I also think the empire seam has to come down. Not sure how you would go about doing that?

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Ada

westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/19/12 3:17 PM

Thanks, that's what I was thinking. I might try to flatten out the curve a little. I've had so many RTW empire waist tops that don't fit properly, I wasn't actually really sure where it SHOULD fit.

I am thrilled with the fit I got otherwise. Seriously, THRILLED. I can't even tell you how many hours of my life I lost in the last month trying and failing to adjust a similar pattern with waist darts only (Ottobre 2012-5-1) for my H-cup bust. I am a TOTAL convert to armhole princess seams now!

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DonnaH
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DonnaH
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In reply to westmoon

Date: 11/19/12 3:22 PM

I know I'm not seeing it right, lol. The side view looks perfect, but for the front view I agree that it should be lowered just a bit. Not sure why that is?

But the main thing is how it feels to you. If it is high enough that you will be uncomfortable and maybe even pulling on it trying to adjust, then definitely lower the seam in the CF. But see if there's a way to lower ONLY the CF.
westmoon
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Date: 11/19/12 4:23 PM

Thank you for all your answers! I played with the seam where the centre front and the skirt connect just a little. By just flattening out the curve from where the skirt meets the princess seam to the centre front by about 1cm I think got it to where I wanted it to be.

I then conducted the acid test for empire seams -- flailing my arms around wildly to the sides and over head and jumping up and down for three minutes -- to see if the seam popped up and over my bust apex. While the top did wander up the body a little with such vigorous flailing, the seam remained firmly below the apex. Since I don't normally flail quite so much in a short period in my day-to-day life, I am pretty sure I am going to call that good enough!

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nitsel
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Date: 11/20/12 9:23 PM

I'm glad your pattern alteration passed the "flailing arms and jumping up & down" test! No pictures of the testing process? Be sure and post pictures of the finished dress and congratulations on the fitting success!
Calendria
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Date: 11/20/12 10:57 PM

I would lower it by just an inch or an inch and a half.

I personally would love someething making my boobs look bigger lol
meleliza
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Date: 11/24/12 5:53 PM

Agreed, it should hit just under your bust. Either make the curve gentler, or taper it down more at the sides. Don't forget to change both pattern pieces! You have a great fit here and it will get easier with practice. It's a really cute pattern and flattering on a large bust.

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Melanie

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