SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Beginner's Forum > sewing for a curvy full figure ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
sewing for a curvy full figure
Simplicity 2758
lulurose
lulurose
Advanced Beginner
Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 11/23/12 9:02 AM

I've sewn Simplicity 2758 view C for myself, it's a semicircle bias cut skirt

My daughter would like one for herself, this will be my first time sewing apparel or someone else and I'm already feeling a bit daunted. She is the exact opposite in body type then myself, but I'm hoping a skirt will be a good starting point.

My daughter is petite and very curvy, she hold her weight in her stomach and posterior (a family trait we call the high and might shelf) . Her high back end pushes her skirt hems up, so much so she can't wear RTW skirts anymore. We've looked through some plus size patterns, but they are far too 'dated' for her age and there is no reason for her to hide her figure as some of the plus size patterns try to do.

My questions are: The pattern sizing goes up to 34" waist, 44" full hip.
My daughter is 45" waist and 50" full hip. Can I simply add the needed width to the side seams? Will bias cut fabric hang well on her type of figure?

Any other patterns that sound good for her figure type? She loves vintage looking clothes and typically would wear fuller knee length skirts, t-shirts and cropped or fitted jackets. I would love to be able to sow for her! Thank you so much for any advice.

Kim12469
starstarstar
Kim12469
Beginner
Montana USA
Member since 3/27/08
Posts: 2394
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 11/23/12 12:13 PM

Have you looked at the Petite Plus patterns in the Shop Patterns section. Albeit some of them are more mature but there are a couple really cute skirts that are simple and clean lined. I really liked the Flared Skirt pattern myself. And you can't go wrong with a princess seamed dress. You could totally make them fun and unique with fabric choice. I see the Flared skirt with some piping details to give it that retro look.

Carolyn has some great tips on her blog for altering patterns.

Sewing Fanatic

------
http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

Blaceyda
star
Blaceyda
Advanced Beginner
IRELAND
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 110
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 11/24/12 6:52 AM

RTW skirts also hang incorrectly on me, due to where I carry my weight - mainly in my behind! Making my own skirts is incredible, I can mark the hem myself and have it even all the way around then when I wear it, which is the important thing, even if it means the skirt itself is 'uneven' when not being worn.

I agree that some of the plus size patterns can be a bit dated looking, and some of them are as bad as RTW in that the designers sometimes seem to think we want to hid our figures under tents. Some curvy people do, and that's their choice, but I agree with you, there is no reason to hide your figure just because it's curvy!

In saying that, two things are helping me (tall and curvy as I am). First up, it's worth it to learn to focus on the line drawings and disregard the models and fabric colours/prints on the pattern envelope covers. I have some patterns which are truely horrific on the envelope cover, but with my own fabric look so much better (hmmm, must get around to posting some reviews!)

Second, I'm learning to make pattern adjustments. Right now, I'm taking Barbara Deckert's class on Craftsy.com, it's all about fitting curvy figures, and making the patterns work for you, including how to grade up (and adjust) a pattern to fit. I highly reccommend the class, I'm learning so much. The way she advises for making patterns larger is to calculate the difference between the pattern and your measurements, and then to distribute the extra between the vertical seams (sometimes this is just the side seams, sometimes not).
I'm also looking into other methods of pattern adjustments, including slash and spread and Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide method (works great for me for sleeves and skirts, haven't tried it yet for bodices/tops). Long story short, your daughter is not confined to the plus size patterns.

As for finding patterns which suit her figure, there are millions of sewing blogs out there. It's helping me to find bloggers with figures like mine and reading about the patterns they use, seeing the pictures and picturing how well they will work for my figure. It's a lot of fun!

KD in ATL

KD in ATL  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 4/21/08
Posts: 34
Send Message

      



Date: 11/24/12 10:03 AM

It sounds like the issue isn't the circumference. What she needs is more length in the skirt back from waist to hem to go over her "shelf". That way the skirt hem will hang evenly. It takes more fabric to travel over a bigger bump than a flatter one.

lulurose
lulurose
Advanced Beginner
Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
Send Message

      



Date: 11/24/12 10:34 AM

Thank you so much for the advice!
I've been looking through the blogs and patterns...and it's starting to come together in my head. I'm taking notes where my daughter may need more attention in her fitting and it's helping me to devise a starting point at least.

What has helped me with fitting my own bodices was to make a drafted sloper. I'm thinking I might as well start my daughter's skirt there as well. I think it will help me understand how the fabric hangs from her figure. Then I'll be able to understand how to adjust the patterns.. hopefully :0) that's the plan.

lulurose
lulurose
Advanced Beginner
Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
Send Message

      



Date: 11/24/12 11:04 AM

Blaceyda, I just read thru the Treads article on your blog concerning grading up. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all

Since my daughter lives a few hours away, I'm going to grade up a few of my favorite skirt patterns and make muslins. That way we will be able to see if she prefers box pleats, bias cut, gathers, etc. Thanks for the ideas!

michellep74
starstarstar
michellep74  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
Posts: 3115
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 11/24/12 12:04 PM

My waist/hip measurements are similar to your daughter's. I was happy with the results I got from the Colette Ginger skirt. The CB seam is slightly curved so there's a bit of extra length back there for a curvy behind. Mine hangs fine in the back.

If you do need to add extra length to go over your daughter's rear, a Full Seat Adjustment is pretty easy to make to your paper pattern. I stick with skirts with a CB seam so that I can make this adjustment or needed.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

lulurose
lulurose
Advanced Beginner
Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
Send Message

      



Date: 11/24/12 2:20 PM

Thank you, Michellep. I think my daughter would really like the Ginger skirt and I wouldn't mind making on foe myself, very cute pattern!

I'll look up the full seat adjustment. When you add width to your Ginger pattern, do you add it to the side seams or the slash and spread method?

KathySews
star
KathySews
Advanced
Michigan USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 4020
Send Message

      



Date: 11/25/12 11:01 AM

this is slightly off topic, but if you would like to sew for your daughter, and she is not close enough for constant fit checking, Craftsy has classes on sale for $19.99 and I highly recommend Plus Size Pattern Fitting with Barbara Deckert. The class includes instructions for making a paper tape dressform. This dressform alone would be very helpful in fitting your daughter. I use mine constantly.

michellep74
starstarstar
michellep74  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
Posts: 3115
Send Message

      



Date: 11/25/12 12:52 PM

I didn't need to do the Full Seat Adjustment on the Ginger skirt (although I do need to do it on Colette pants/shorts--I use the slash-and-spread method), but I did add a little to the waist by just grading up at the side seams.

As Kathy mentions there are some classes on Craftsy that might be looking into. I haven't started watching it yet, but I signed up for their "Draft an A-line skirt" class in hopes of learning how to draft my own skirts.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Beginner's Forum >> sewing for a curvy full figure

Merchants on PR

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Reconstructing History
Web site

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Style Arc sewing dress patterns


Patterns That Fit
Web site

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Sewing Basics
Sewing Basics

Register

Beginners Guide to Dyeing Fabrics
Beginners Guide to Dyeing Fabrics

Register

New Look 6575

photo
by: ryan's mom

Review
Suzi Purse Insert

Suzi Purse Insert

Buy Now
Islander Sewing Systems Waterfall Pattern Pattern

Islander Sewing Systems Waterfall Pattern Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.