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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Shaping the back of a jacket help needed please ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Shaping the back of a jacket help needed please
Darts or centre back seam
Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/26/12 4:17 PM

I am making a fleece muslin for a wool jacket from Burda 7273

I want it more fitted at the back and have put two darts in the back. I am not sure if this is the best way to get the fit. What do you think?






More photos on my blog.
-- Edited on 11/26/12 4:56 PM --

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Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

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NancyZL
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 11/26/12 4:49 PM

I think this looks very good with your darts.

Laurasews
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Laurasews  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/26/12 4:56 PM

I also like it with the darts. Still loose fitting enough, but much more flattering to the female figure. Nice jacket!

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 11/26/12 6:10 PM

Quote:
I am not sure if this is the best way to get the fit. What do you think?
Why not? When slopers have waistline darts, as you've inserted and the darts are either left unstitched or rotated somewhere else for a design. In other words, you did good!

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SVN
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 11/26/12 6:54 PM

Really nice-looking jacket.
You could always turn the darts to princess seams and use them to remove a bit of the excess fabric you have on the back at the armhole. The princess seam may make it look more finished.
Having said that, I think the darts look fine, although you may want to shorten them a tad to remove the hollow at the end.

MNBarb
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Date: 11/27/12 12:46 PM

I suppose you don't want a center back seam. I also like the suggestion for princess seaming. I'm just not sure you will be happy with those darts in wool fabric.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
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LauraTS
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Date: 11/27/12 1:38 PM

There are side seams, right? You could transfer the shaping that the darts are doing to the side seams by curving them more, but you might also need to add a center back seam to get the shaping in the right place. If it's a heavy wool, you might indeed be happier with more seams but no darts.

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Clareew
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Date: 12/1/12 10:14 AM

Thank you so much for your replies, I missed some before today because I did not have the topic in my tracker.

I have decided to stick with the darts because the wool is really thick (about quarter of an inch) also, because it is knitted, is not very stable on raw edges.

I have been hand felting the seam allowances to make them more secure.

It is already half made now but I so like the pattern, I may try some of your suggestions in my next version.

------
Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 12/1/12 8:37 PM

I think you're right on for sticking with the darts. They will help to hold the hem down, because the wool is heavy.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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