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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Huge darts after FBA in a knit top

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Huge darts after FBA in a knit top
artkat
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artkat
Advanced Beginner
International NEW ZEALAND
Member since 3/19/05
Posts: 102
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Date: 5/7/05 3:07 PM

After reading FFRP I am trying to do my first FBA. My upper chest is 36 " (so a size 14) but I am 41" in the bust (E cup). I am trying to make Butterick 6084 .I have tried adding a bust dart but it is huge - 2 " deep when sewn and that is with the vertical dart left in and taken out in the side seam. It is too much fabric to ease in so should I half the dart size and put in a second side dart and make it a feature? I have made a muslin with the big dart and it fits well abut the ends of the dart bulge a bit. I don't have access to any of the other fitting books here in NZ. I lookes at doing a pivot and slide method but the difference between upper bust and bust seem too big. I would liek towork this out before I cut into my expensive ($25 per metre0 fabric.

------
Kathy
New Plymouth, New Zealand

Hilary
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Hilary  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 12/21/02
Posts: 551
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Date: 5/7/05 5:21 PM

artkat, I think you're on the right track- I have heard of people using 2 darts instead of one, for darts that come out too big. I'm guessing you would just determine the amount of spread and cut it in half to make two darts at half the size. Then again I am only guessing!

You could try making one dart from the side seam and one from the lower armscye too. Tissue fitting would help determine if it would work-just remember that of course fabric will behave a lot differently, so maybe making a muslin in a fabric with a similar hand (weight and drape) would be wise. Especially since you paid so much for your fabric!

Good luck-hopefully some others may chime in and offer more advice for you :o)

Hilary

Linda E.
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Linda  E.
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Oklahoma USA
Member since 4/23/02
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Date: 5/7/05 6:07 PM

artkast,
before you cut into the pattern I would trace off the pattern and play with the dart you probably should use two bust darts seems to me like it work.

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
USA
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Date: 5/7/05 6:46 PM

My thoughts ...

First, since it's a knit, you may not need as big a dart as tissue fitting is telling you. Remember, knits usually have negative ease and some of the dart can be substituted with the stretch of the knit.

Second, you can rotate part of the dart to another location. For instance, you can rotate half of the dart out at the waist/sideseam area. Or you can rotate part of the dart to the armscye and not sew it -- this will give you a fold at the armscye but if you look at RTW tees you'll see that unsewn darts (folds) are the norm. It depends on your own tolerance level.

Third, you can leave the dart where it is and ease some of it into the side seam and sew the remaining as a dart.

I'm kind of scatterbrained today so if I think of something else, I'll pop back into this thread.

Let us know how you solve this.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Everyday Sewist
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Everyday Sewist
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USA
Member since 9/14/02
Posts: 2707
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Date: 5/7/05 9:50 PM

Quote:
First, since it's a knit, you may not need as big a dart as tissue fitting is telling you. Remember, knits usually have negative ease and some of the dart can be substituted with the stretch of the knit.


I have found this to be true. I keep making my darts smaller and smaller on knits. According to FFRP I would add a 2" dart, but that causes my knit tops to look baggy at the side seams. On my last top, I used a 1" dart which was easy enough to ease in. I think I could go even smaller, although I do require some sort of dart allowance in order to keep the tops from riding up in front.


Neefer
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Neefer
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 2662
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Date: 5/7/05 10:00 PM

I sew a big ol' dart, like 4 inches, in my knit tops. It works great, giving me not only the added room, but the shaping to flatter my bust. It's just like a dart in a woven.

------
Neefer aka AgitProp and Village Churl Sewing Blog: http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/

Bonny lass, bonny lass, will you be mine?
You shall neither wash dishes nor serve the wine;
But sit on a cushion and sew a fine seam,
And feast upon strawberries, sugar, and cream.

Lorna C. Newman
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Lorna C. Newman
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Ontario CANADA
Member since 8/10/02
Posts: 2463
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Date: 5/8/05 9:25 AM

Quote:
My upper chest is 36 " (so a size 14) but I am 41" in the bust (E cup)


I have the same measurements as you and have to do the same darts. What I often do in my knit tops is to add the extra to the pattern that I need (I usually add 1 1/2" a side when using knits and allow the fabric to do the rest) and then I don't sew the dart. I have tried easing in the fabric but find it looks too wrinkly at the side seams of the bust area. So I follow the FFRP method of closing off the Big Old Dart and then re-draw the sides to where they are supposed to be. No darts but I have the extra fabric the girls need.

One other point, please make sure that you check your apex point before you cut the fabric. Mine tends to be a bit lower than the patterns and that will also affect the fit.

Welcome to the Big Old Dart Club!

------
Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
newmansneedle.blogspot.com

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