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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > We have a muslin! ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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We have a muslin!
dragonzflame
dragonzflame
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NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 12/2/12 9:19 PM

Actually, we've had it for a while, but the project has had to go on hiatus a bit due to difficulty in finding fabric. Lucky it's not a hard pattern, because I've only got until February to complete it!

So this is my muslin, combined with petticoat for the full effect (and yes, those are the shoes I'll be wearing!). It's going to have the lace overlay with lace sleeves, which I've still got to do a pattern for - I'm using Butterick 3389 to give me a hand there. It's a bit weird trying to combine cap sleeves with princess seams! I've ordered some lace, now it's just a waiting game for it to arrive. (This lace in ivory, if you're interested. I could not find anything I wanted locally, not for the right price.)

The actual dress will have no waist seam - that was my quick and dirty taking in the excess for my short waist (3cm in the end!).

I have a question about the weird wrinkles just below the waist, though - will they go away on their own once the fabric is underlined, or is that a symptom of needing to extend the boning? Currently the boning stops at the waist - exactly where that waist-shortening seamline is. I'm hoping not to have to extend it further, because I'm worried that will be uncomfortable when sitting.

I'm feeling pretty good about how it's going - once the lace shows up I can choose matching fabric for the shell. I'm using rayon to line, just because I love how soft it is. And it's just as well I've got a couple of weeks off over Christmas - I'll need it.
-- Edited on 12/2/12 9:27 PM --

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to dragonzflame <<


Date: 12/2/12 11:03 PM

How lovely! That's you? You're going to be a stunning bride -- can't wait to see your finished gown.

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

NancyAnn2
NancyAnn2  Friend of PR
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In reply to dragonzflame <<


Date: 12/3/12 5:34 AM

I wouldn't think you would want to extend the boning. The dress may be pulling a bit at the right hip, possibly because of the underskirt, and lining may take care of it. It is going to be absolutely lovely. You may need to let it out a bit in order to accomodate the underskirt? It will be so nice.

------
NancyAnn2

KathySews
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Date: 12/3/12 6:20 AM

I love everything about this dress --- especially the shoes. This is one of my favorite lengths. It is so fresh and sexy

VivianZ
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Date: 12/3/12 9:16 AM

It is beautiful! I agree w/ Nancy Ann 2. You may have to let it out a tad for the underling. But I also think your petticoat is flairing out more from the waist than the skirt is allowing and that is causing the skirt to rise to accomadate it creating the slight bunching. I would take it to a dress maker and get advice. We are also only seeing a 2D picture and she might see something else. It will be a lovely dress.

------
height 5'2" bust 36, waist 31, hip 39.
I have way too many yards to count, and I will never use them up, but I will die trying!

dragonzflame
dragonzflame
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Date: 12/4/12 3:33 PM

Thanks everyone!

It's not a pulling type of wrinkle, if that makes sense, more a loose fabric wrinkle. Part of it, I think, is that I've lost a little round the waist since I made the petticoat in the winter (summer sport season has started again!) so it's sitting lower than it should. I'll move the snap over so it's a bit tighter and sits where it should. Looking at it again, I think it might just be the fabric - I might just put in a layer of some scrap cotton to see what happens. Worst case scenario, I'll cheat and fuse some lightweight interfacing to the inside *evil laugh*. I got shell fabric yesterday, a cream slub satin. The jury is out on whether I want to use the shiny or matte side, because the lace is quite lustrous too. We're almost all go!

Sidenote: why is the lighting in fabric shops always so terrible? Makes it terribly difficult to tell what colour I'm actually buying. I know you can go outside, but I wish it just looked right inside.

SquishSews
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Date: 12/4/12 6:42 PM

dragonzflame - you're going to be SO lovely in it!! I find it awesome that we are making "the same" dress and yet they are so different. Really nice job on the muslin - was it a lot of tries with fitting?

dragonzflame
dragonzflame
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NEW ZEALAND
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In reply to SquishSews <<


Date: 12/5/12 3:40 PM

Thanks! I know, I always love different interpretations of the same thing. I can't wait to see what yours looks like!

I think that was full muslin 3. I started with an old sheet and made a basic mock-up of the base pattern, no changes. That was a waste of time because I chose too big a size (based it on the bust), the original didn't have the fullness in the skirt anyway, and the sheet was far too lightweight for the job. But I made the pattern changes and decided to do an FBA on the size 8. Made a full muslin, FBA turned out to be completely unneccessary, and I actually ended up having to take in the size 8 at the bust. So then I redid the whole thing to make sure, and work out those last issues (like raising the waistline) and that was muslin 3.

But I'd also done a couple of test runs of the bodice just to the waist to get the fit around the bust and back right. I like how the pieces for princess seams are so small that I could just cut those out from the leftovers ;-)

sophielas
sophielas
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In reply to dragonzflame <<


Date: 12/7/12 3:40 AM

So beautiful! And great shoes. It's going to be such a pretty dressI too am in NZ, embarking upon wedding dress construction. Not at muslin stage yet though. Saving that for Christmas timelooking forward to more updates!

dragonzflame
dragonzflame
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Date: 12/7/12 10:48 PM

I figured out the wrinkling problem :-) It's the petticoat I made. I chose a tulle that was a bit too soft, so added some stiffer tulle to the bottom two tiers to boof it out. That's left the top of it a bit flatter, so there's no support for the fabric. If underlining and lining don't help, I can just add a little something to the top of the petticoat and all should be well :-)

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