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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Is it tricky to draft a ruffled collar?

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Is it tricky to draft a ruffled collar?
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/3/12 10:37 PM

I'd love to copy this blouse from Jcrew but I cant find exactly the right pattern. Really it's ok with me just to copy the feel of it - popover sleeveless with an interesting collar that isn't too too much. I tried this on in the store and I love the fabric and the style. However, in addition to needing my usual extra room in the bust, and less fabric in the low back, the shoulders on this thing are way too narrow to get bra straps under. Plus the price tag.

Anyway, I found New Look 6407 with a v neck and a mandarin collar that seems pretty close and workable. I really like the ruffles, though. Can I modify the mandarin collar? Is it just a matter of slashing and spreading? The inspiration blouse is actually more pleated than ruffled, but I think the over all effect is pretty similar.

------
Melanie

DebbyS

DebbyS
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Date: 12/3/12 11:39 PM

I would start with the mandarin collar and draft the ruffle by cutting a long strip about 3 inches wide and 3 times the length of the mandarin collar stand. Fold right sides together and sew the short ends, flip to wrong sides together and ruffle on the raw edge. Set the ruffle into the mandarin collar using the instructions for the shirt collar. If your fabric is thin or floppy, you may need to lightly interface the ruffle after cutting.

------
~

Debby

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 12/4/12 0:50 AM

Oh, golly, adding a ruffle to a collar is one of the EASIEST things in the sewing world--particularly like the one in your link! So super-easy, you'll start adding them to everything. You probably can't see it b/c the picture is so small, but the top I'm wearing in my avatar has a (box-pleated) ruffle fairly similar to the one in your link, and in this link you can see a shirt I just made this fall with a GINORMOUS ruffle added to the collar stand. As Cathy said, it really is just a matter of cutting a rectangle of fabric about three times the length of the collar and twice the desired depth/height, folding it in half lengthwise, and then gathering the raw edges until it's the length of your collar stand. (The ginormous ruffle is actually one layer with a serged rolled hem, which is another option. But the double-layer one is most likely what's going on in the RTW inspiration top.)

Or you could read this tutorial, which illustrates it beautifully.

Have fun ruffling your world!

------
~Gem in the prairie

Snowblossom
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Snowblossom
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Date: 12/4/12 0:53 AM

What DebbieS said. : )

This pattern Vogue 1030 seems to have a similar ruffle. It is cut on the bias and is a bit wider. So you might want to experiment with cutting the ruffle different ways.

Lovely blouse!

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/4/12 3:19 AM

Might just be my eyesight and small screen but the blouse looks to me as though it has one of those ruffles which extend above and below a narrow line of stitching or narrow piece of fabric. If that were the case it would still be straight strip pleated or gathered, but this time gathered in the middle and set on round the neck edge - OR two narrower straight strips each one set into a narrow band of mandarin collar. The bias idea would give a softer, more three dimensional look to the folds, straight grain would hold pleats more easily and would stand up in one direction rather than falling as a wavy line. Golly that stretched my limited powers of description

On the subject of ruffles, a third rather nice one is the skewed ruffle - basically you take your strip, and when you fold it you skew it so that instead of the edges lining up there's a twist at the top folded edge and the two corners are one and a half to three inches apart. You need a longer strip than your finished measurement as you lose a bit at each end. It makes the ruffle puff out. Best to use fabric which doesn't need ironing for this one.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/5/12 8:51 AM

Thanks for the great answers! I didn't think it would be hugely difficult, but I didn't want to overlook something. Good points about ironing, interfacing and adding ruffles to everything. I'll have to watch that. the inspiration piece is a crepe de chine and it's very nice. Of course I can't get that fabric (a local shop owner told me the designers put holds on their leftover fabric so it can't be sold for a few years) but I did snag this lovely stuff on the black Friday sale. It has a beautiful drape and I think the black and white print serves the same function of interesting neutral as a foil for bright colors.

I will check out the jcrew collar construction more carefully in the store if I have the chance.

------
Melanie

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