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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Burda Expert Needed

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Burda Expert Needed
Where to add seam allowances and lining
Scheri
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Scheri  Friend of PR
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AB CANADA
Member since 7/13/10
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Date: 12/5/12 4:37 PM

I just purchased Burda Plus Size Wool Pencil Skirt #136A a downloaded pattern.

BurdaStyle

I have added my 5/8" seam allowances on the pattern piece (21) CF, (22) SF but I am confused when I get to the pieces (23) CB and 24 SB. The pieces 23 & 24 have one seam which includes the kick pleat extension. Do I also add the 5/8 seam to that seam line including the kick pleat extensions?

Here is line drawing

Flickr

My next concern is the instructions ask that the lining be cut 13 cm or 5 1/4 " shorter than the skirt length. This takes the lining up to above the kick pleat extension? Is that correct?

Thank you Burda Sewers :D

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Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

Elona
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In reply to Scheri <<
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Date: 12/6/12 2:16 PM

Without having the pattern in front of me, here's what I'd suggest:

Go ahead and add the 5/8" allowance to the kick pleat extensions--but thread mark them. As you construct and fit the skirt, it will become evident if you need the allowance or should cut it off.

Same with the lining. The instruction to cut the lining that much shorter seems weird to me. You can always cut the excess off if you don't need it.

However, before you cut things out, this--about a third of the way down the page--is the way to line a classic kick pleat, and I doubt it will be shown like this in the typically shorthand Burda instructions.

Scheri
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Scheri  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/6/12 6:46 PM

Thank you so much Kay. I will add allowances as you suggested and see how things go as I progress. I really enjoyed you blog :-)

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Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

Kay Y
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Date: 12/6/12 7:26 PM

That is the most-visited page on my blog, I think! For what it's worth I cut the lining the same length as the fashion fabric and hem it shorter once the skirt is hemmed. I usually aim for a finished lining length which is about an inch shorter than the skirt. Sometimes you have to make thread chains to anchor the lining to the skirt hem somewhat, so it doesn't slide out when you sit down.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Scheri <<
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Date: 12/12/12 6:19 PM

Yes, you have to add sas to all edges, even the kickpleat., at least I always have.
Shortening the lining to above the kickpleat is the easy way out, and not the way it should be done' You should cut the lining to the finished length of the skirt. Look for a tutorial on how to hem a skirt with a kickpleat.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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