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TURN FITTED SLOPER INTO KNIT TOP
BASIC BODICE SLOPER INTO KNIT BLOCK
KathleenNW

KathleenNW  Friend of PR
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Subject: HOW DO I TURN FITTED SLOPER INTO KNIT TOP? Date: 12/12/12 8:49 PM

I have a very fitted sloper that fits very well. I'm bigger on one side than the other and have to do two separate alterations for my left side and right side when I use a commercial pattern. That's a lot of alterations!

Since I have a sloper that fits well, I'd like to make a knit top block out of it.

I'd love to hear from patternmakers on how I can do this.

Thank you sew much.
-- Edited on 12/13/12 1:20 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to KathleenNW <<


Date: 12/13/12 6:19 PM

I would make it about 1/4" smaller than the sloper for semi fitted knits.

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goodworks1
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Date: 12/13/12 9:38 PM

I'd say it depends on your knit, but I wouldn't think you'd need to make many changes for a stable knit.

For a tighter fit in an actual garment, you may want to take out some of the crosswise stretch. I'd say that will depend on the look you prefer and the type of knit you are using.
-- Edited on 12/13/12 9:39 PM --

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Nancy K
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In reply to KathleenNW <<
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Date: 12/13/12 10:05 PM

I have a moulage I made with Kenneth King that is skin tight, and a dress/blouse sloper made from it that is fitted, but has wearing ease. If this is the case with your sloper than you do need to remove ease. You also need to raise the underarm. KK had a set of measurements that we used to enlarge the moulage to make the slopers. He recommended using the moulage as a knit sloper, but even in a moderate knit I find that it's too large. I like my knit tops to have negative ease at the bust and hip, but be loser in my mid section. A moulage and a sloper have either no ease or some ease. It depends on how much stretch your knit has and also how much ease you like in a knit garment. It's always a crap shoot with knits on how a pattern will fit because there is so much variation in stretch. I can't make Peggy Sagers wrap it around your body to determine how much ease you need to work for me, so I decided to measure the stretch in each knit that I make and mark it on the pattern along with the ease I end up using for that knit. I always cut knits with in case sas so that I can adjust the fit to the knit before I sew it permanently.

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KathleenNW

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Date: 12/13/12 11:09 PM

Thank you all for your replies.

I'm think'n I'll just have to experiment. I might measure a knit top I know fits, then go from there. But then again, it will depend of the amount of stretch the fabric has.

Heavy sigh...

poplin
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In reply to KathleenNW <<
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Date: 12/14/12 1:22 PM

You'll have to do a test. It would be handy if you have on hand yards and yards of the type of knit (content, weight, percentage of stretch) you plan on sewing.

If the sloper is a tight fit, then I suggest starting out with a four-way stretch jersey with great recovery.

I assume that your sloper has darts. You'll have to figure out how to distribute those. The only darts I've seen on some knit top patterns are side seam bust darts and shoulder darts on raglan sleeves.

When you sew up your test garment and it's actually wearable, try it on and check the underarm depth, check the neckline.

Underarm depth totally depends on what's in season, the style of your garment, your choice of knit, and your preference.

The deeper the neckline, the bigger the gap. How are you going to finish it? To me, the part of a knit garment that screams "Look at me! Look at me!" is the neckline. Okay, maybe someone will look or stare at the bust, but to me as a seamstress, it's the neckline.

You probably would have tackled drafting a set-in sleeve by now. You'll have to determine how much ease you need. Set-in sleeves for knit tops do not require a lot of ease on the sleeve cap.

I agree: it would be helpful to have a knit top that already fits nicely as a guide. But if you already have a simple knit top that fits nicely, why not copy it? I think, KKing has a video class on copying RTW here.




-- Edited on 12/14/12 1:33 PM --

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Marilly
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In reply to KathleenNW <<


Date: 12/14/12 2:48 PM

I am lazy so I went the software way and let it make a stretch block for me and calc the percentage of reduction needed for whatever fabric stretch factor at what ease I choose.

But since you a good block , maybe Lena's post about how to adjust a close fit block manually will help. I think she had a video about stretch wovens and knits and how to adapt a block for wovens to a stretch block too, but I can't find it on YouTube, might have been for subscribers only..can't recall now. Anyway, here's the post from her blog:

Lena's block adjustment for stretch fabrics.

I agree you'll still have to experiment. When I first tried my software I made basic long sleeve, jewel neck tops in each of the stretch catagories it listed with the same bust/waist/hip ease for all to see how they'd look and feel. Helped me to realize that I don't want the same ease in a lightweight jersey as I would a cotton lycra.
I also like the idea of picking out your fav knit tops and then figuring out the ease and stretch factor from it. Sounds valid and maybe easier in the long run. < : )
Shel

Nancy K
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In reply to Marilly <<


Date: 12/14/12 4:54 PM

I agree about measuring tops you like, and you can easily measure the amount of stretch the fabrics have. If you don't have lumps and bumps you can certainly go with a snugger fit.
If you don't set in the sleeves int he round but sew them in flat it's easy to serger all the way up the side to remove extra ease.

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petro
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Date: 12/14/12 5:29 PM

I usually take out the ease for the kind of knits which have 'give' rather than stretch. If there's definite stretch and recovery in the knit, I move towards negative ease, around 80 per cent of my measurement. To know what ease is in there, if you can't remember, measure across the block at key points, and compare it to body measurements.
How I take out the ease, quick method, is to fold out a small amount vertically through the shoulders to the hem on front and back, take a small amount off the centre front and back, and a small amount off the side seams.

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