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Forum > Sewing Machines > tips for "coverstitch" over seams ( Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)

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tips for "coverstitch" over seams
Kristikay22
Kristikay22
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Date: 12/14/12 8:00 AM

I don't own a coverstitch but my Bernina has some great coverstitch-like options. Provides great stretch, looks great, etc. Here is my problem -- I am good with knits and don't have much trouble EXCEPT over a seam. So I construct my shirt and there are shoulder seams (served). I serge on my neckband and make sure they are all lying flat. Then I go to "coverstitch" down my neckband and all is well and looks lovely EXCEPT when I go over those shoulder seams. They are pretty flat and I've tried raising my presser foot and all sorts of things.....
Give me some tips ladies. I know there has to be someIt's simply the bulk of that little bulge and the fact that it's not super duper wide making it uneven... then, of course, the knit is delicate and stretches easy on top of that...

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SheBear0320
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Date: 12/14/12 10:46 AM

I posted this "fix" that has worked for me on another thread -- I have a Janome CP900 coverstitch machine which I use pretty much daily (some days much more than others):

"Depending on the thickness, I might pound my seam allowances -- I've never snipped the seam allowance which some people do.

My skipped stitches were always at the seam allowances -- first off I switched to a clear view coverstitch foot for all my coverstitching.

What I do is stitch up to the seam allowance (so that the front edge of the clear foot is over the seam allowance "hump" but the needles aren't there yet). Make sure the needles are in the down position. Then I lift the presser foot and place a shim underneath the back of the presser foot (inserting it so it is right up against the back of the needles). Put the presser foot back down and sew slowly until the back end of the presser foot gets past the shim.

I tried using the Jean-A-Ma-Jig but found it to be too thick for the CP900 -- I use a plastic point turner from Oxmoor House (it was a freebie with some book I bought years ago) as my shim. It is about 1/8" thick and works perfectly.

When I'm done coverstitching, I lift the needles to their highest position and use an awl to hook the thread loops under the presser foot and pull them forward. I then snip the loops and hold onto the upper portions of the thread while pulling the fabric to the rear until the threads disengage and then clip. I tie the threads off and bury the ends into the fabric layers.

Hope that helps."

Additional Notes:

If you are "pounding" the seam allowances do it from the wrong side and cover the fabric with a scrap -- make sure the right side of your fabric is protected by being on a soft surface (experience taught me this one).

These "tricks" have left me with very, very few skipped stitches (any I have are usually a result of user error -- I get distracted and forget to "shim").

Good luck.



-- Edited on 12/14/12 10:48 AM --

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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
59.0 yards sewn (as of 09/17/14)
133.875 yards purchased (as of 09/17/14)

KPM
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In reply to SheBear0320 <<


Date: 12/14/12 2:52 PM

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "upper portions of the thread" - is that the thread remaining on the machine, or on the fabric? I just acquired the CP900 and read in the manual about beginning and ending with a little swatch of throw away fabric. It doesn't sound as if you do that. I really didn't understand the concept, because if it could begin and end on the swatch, why could it not do the same on the project?

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Let's just say all modern sms are well represented in my studio.

SheBear0320
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In reply to KPM <<


Date: 12/14/12 4:15 PM

I personally found the majority of the CP900 manual as it relates to techniques to be useless -- I learned way more by reading and practicing Debbie Cook's coverstitch tutorials

Debbie Cook's "How to End a Coverstitch"

She has photos which explain it way better than my words. Check out all her other tutorials as well -- they are gold.


On Janome manuals -- I have an older model MC 7000 sm and a 634D serger and I find the manuals to be so much better both from a technical and a technique perspective than my later purchases which are both Janomes (DC3050 and the CP900).

Hope this helps somewhat.

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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
59.0 yards sewn (as of 09/17/14)
133.875 yards purchased (as of 09/17/14)

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to KPM <<


Date: 12/14/12 4:21 PM

This is the way to end when you're doing a hem or in the round sewing w/a coverstitch. The only thing I'll add is I use the extra lift on the presser foot when I'm removing it to the back otherwise if the presser foot hits the fabric and slow's it's backwards pull it results in slightly pulled stitches. Ask me how I know!


Coverstitch tips Debbie's got some really good tips for use w/any coverstitch.

Debbie (not the same as the link)

SheBear0320
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 12/14/12 9:41 PM

I use the method I mentioned above for straight sewing and for sewing in the round -- doesn't result in any pulling. I just like the ease of ending this way -- simply lift the presser foot, slip the awl underneath and pull out about 6" of the thread and then cut and pull the fabric towards the back and then clip the bottom/looper thread.

It's become so second nature to me that it just comes naturally -- unless my mind is already onto the next project

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
59.0 yards sewn (as of 09/17/14)
133.875 yards purchased (as of 09/17/14)

simplystitches
simplystitches
New York USA
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1482
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In reply to SheBear0320 <<


Date: 12/14/12 10:16 PM

I use the same method. You and I were cross posting.

Debbie

Judy Kski
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Judy Kski  Friend of PR
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In reply to KPM <<


Date: 12/14/12 11:42 PM

You use the swatch of fabric you describe for beginning and ending when you are stitchng onto fabric and then off of fabric. This would be used for chainstitching, for example.

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Judy

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