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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Help choosing a size for my first vogue pattern please:) ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Help choosing a size for my first vogue pattern please:)
Vogue 8825 knit dress
SecondHandRogue
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Date: 12/14/12 8:13 AM

I have a pile of vogue patterns on the shelf but I haven't actually tried any of them yet The Colette instructions are just so much better for apparel beginners...

But I would really love to make some knit dresses and I'd like to start with the very easy vogue dress, v8825.

V8825

I am having a terrible time choosing a size. I want the top to be as fitted as it is on the model; I'm under 5'5" and any extra in the torso will make me look dumpy. my measurements are high bust 34, bust 37, waist 28, hips 37.5. I get slightly wider below the hip. I'm 38 and have two very small boys, so I don't want the skirt cupping my butt at the playground, but I don't want much ease either.

I was thinking maybe a 10, judging from all the posts I've read, but I'm not trusting my judgement with much confidence....and few of the reviews seem to post both measurements and size used.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

GwenH
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Date: 12/14/12 9:30 AM

If you go by the sizing charts it looks like 14 would be closer to your measurements, with needing to add a little more for the bust and subtract a little for the hips.

Here's the sizing chart: Vogue sizing charts

To be honest, I often see people say a pattern isn't sized right and when I look at the photos it's clear they took out the design ease. Some styles are designed with not only wearing ease but design ease. Some people want a particular fit different from the design of the garment.

If you really think you should use a size quite different from your measurements, my suggestion would be to make a test garment or muslin.

EDIT: and don't let the size number throw you off. Pattern size numbers have nothing to do with ready-to-wear size numbers at this point in time.
-- Edited on 12/14/12 9:32 AM --

SquishSews
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Date: 12/14/12 10:25 AM

I'd suggest trying the 14 in something cheap, then sizing down if you need to - there is often a lot of ease... Some patterns these days will show the finished garment measurements somewhere (on the envelope, inside on the tissue, inside on the instructions....) and that can give you a batter idea if 14 will be right or not, as well.

Best thing: try one a little big, you can always cut down, but it's way harder to add more fabric. ;-)

Edited to add... my last Vogue dress (8765 review) I cut a 14 for the bust... and I'm way bigger than you (but I did use the appropriate cup size adjustment that was in with this pattern).
-- Edited on 12/14/12 10:29 AM --

carolynw
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Date: 12/14/12 10:27 AM

Vogue patterns have the finished measurements printed on their pattern pieces so you can see bust/waist/hip.

As this is a knit you can figure out how close (or not) you want this to fit.

If you have never sewn Vogue before I would suggest making a muslin if you can find some inexpensive knit with the same amount of stretch as your fashion fabric.

You are concerned about torso length and about the only way to verify this is by way of a muslin, careful measurement or pin fitting the pattern pieces.

Hope this helps and good luck!

KathySews
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Date: 12/14/12 12:43 PM

since you are posting in the beginner topic, I want to share some advice I was given that reduced some of my frustration.

There is no magic pattern that fits everyone right out of the envelope

Meaning you will need to make adjustments to the pattern and test it. I also agree that the pattern size has nothing to do with ready to wear sizing. It's just a number. Use your measurements and make a test garment if in doubt.

kkkkaty
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Date: 12/14/12 3:52 PM

I suggest picking the size by the high bust; this is old advice, and I forgot it when I was making a vogue dress recently. The top ended up being too big and looks dreadful. I made it again, choosing the size by my high bust, perfect fit. I did have to add a bit to the lower part of the dress (i.e., made the dress in a size 16 on top, and graded out to use the size 18 lines for the hip area. hth

ps: I think a 14 is too big for you... just me, tho.... if you use the high bust, the Vogue charts suggest a 12
-- Edited on 12/14/12 4:04 PM --

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Viking Lily 545
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kkkkaty
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Date: 12/14/12 3:57 PM

one other thing; this is the pattern I made. Note that it is offered with different cup sizes. You might want to chose a pattern that offers that since you are just starting off with new pattern companies

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

kkkkaty
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Date: 12/14/12 4:01 PM

sorry to be running on like this, but here's a good discussion about selecting a pattern using the high bust measurement... Vintage girl and from Pati Palmer
-- Edited on 12/14/12 4:09 PM --

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

beauturbo
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Date: 12/14/12 5:56 PM

Since you put your measurements on there, and they are not too far off from mine, and I can see the exact pattern and shape of it, and about to make that one, this is what I think I know:

You would not like size 14 at all, it will be way too big. Especially in the top and those raglan sleeves, since it's a knit! So I think size 14 is just out! I think size 12 if you want to cut it out, just as is and not make any changes to it, would be the one to use. If you like tight fit, maybe size 10 in the top, just because of the way the raglan sleeves are, still might work.

If you cut at size 12, it will be just about 40-41 inches around at hips.

But you would never know that at all, from looking at the pattern pieces or envelope or the pattern directions even !!!!!!! just because Vouge really blew it there, and dropped the ball there, and did not put garment hip measurements anyplace on the envelope, pattern pieces, or fold out instructions, and that is just getting pretty nutty to not even do that that. I think shame on them for that, for a $22 pattern (no matter what you paid for it) that is getting really, very, very lazy. I know this, as I have it (not made yet) and I just for the first time even looked at mine! I got about 40-41 inches across the hips for finished measurements there, jut by measuring across the hips (also unmarked on the pattern piece?) just 1/2 the front skirt portion, X 4, less some for seam allowances, but they should have bothered to do that instead someplace, and not make you have to do that.

So gut instinct which is good for no one except me (but you measure about the same as me) tells me, for me, size 12 is it, if I don't want to fool around with anything, also better to have more fabric than less, as can't put back fabric that is not there in the first place, but you can always take larger seam allowances when sewing if you want to.

Vivienne
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Date: 12/14/12 6:38 PM

I too have very similar measurements (14 on paper) and would go with a 12 in this.

The final outcome will depend very much on the knit fabric itself.

I muslined a Vogue knit dress recently and found the fit was awesome at a 10 in ITY, 12 in a thick rayon lycra and 14 in a stable silk jersey.

Find your most similar dress and compare the measurements to the pattern tissue as a guideline.

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