Member since 1/11/09
Date: 12/15/12 2:54 PM
When sewing Jalie and Kwik Sew is the general consensus to use the high bust measurement? What are your opinions/experience? I am most curious in the neck, shoulder, and armhole fit.
I have a high bust measurement of 35 1/2 inches and 14" using the Nancy Zieman front chest measurement, and a full bust of 38". I have usually used a medium for the Kwik Sew patterns but am rethinking my starting point and maybe trying a size small with a full bust adjustment. I have a few Jalie patterns as well but not much experience in their sizing. Would love to hear other people's thoughts.
Member since 4/8/02
Date: 12/15/12 5:55 PM
Jalie, I probably wouldn't mess with. Their shoulders are not cut for linebackers, and the patterns are so well-drafted that I generally leave them alone. DD has a broad back, so I'm not shy about cutting one size larger for the upper back, and easing it to fit the slightly narrower front.
KwikSew. A little trickier. IMHO, they are drafted for someone with better bones than I have; the shoulders are wide, the shoulder-to-bust length and armhole lengths are long, as is the crotch length, so I have to do some folding of the pattern pieces above the bust and above the crotch. They're often designed for a roomy fit, too, so I have better luck with them if I drop down half a size, and trace exactly between two sizes. All the parts still fit together, thanks to the "nested" sizes on the pattern sheet. If you drop down in size, then you might want to consider a FBA for some of the designs.
-- Edited on 12/15/12 5:55 PM --
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Member since 1/16/08
|In reply to Karla Kizer <<
Date: 12/15/12 6:10 PM
Thank you for this info. I have a few of these in my stash and now I know what to expect:)
Member since 9/18/04
1 member likes this.
Date: 12/15/12 7:02 PM
KWIKSEW Fit Guide (opens a PDF)
This booklet has some helpful information about sizing and some basic alterations for Kwik Sew patterns. The alteration instructions could apply to any brand pattern, but you might find the Kwik Sew clearly written instructions helpful.
Note that the KwikSew Fit Guide also contains this very important bit of information about cup sizes (on page 12):
KWIK•SEW patterns are designed to fit the following cup sizes (approximately):
XS & S = B cup, M = C cup, L & XL = D cup
1X = D cup, 2X & 3X = DD, 4X = DDD
It's worth noting that Kwik Sew does not assume a B cup for all sizes.
Member since 7/1/07
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 12/15/12 9:10 PM
For Jalie, I use the upper bust for shoulders & neck, then go up to size for waist as I do not like a tight fit. This adds size to bust which works for me.
Member since 7/27/05
Date: 12/16/12 8:00 AM
Jalie instructs you to use full bust. It's printed on some of the patterns. For example you can look at 3132 - the measurement chart lists "full bust" and then the instructions say to choose based on bust size.
At the PR weekend in NY, Emilie said the patterns should be selected based on full bust.
But of course, any size selection is just a starting point and then you need to make it your own.
-- Edited on 12/16/12 8:00 AM --
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Member since 1/11/09
Date: 12/17/12 2:09 PM
Thanks so much everyone. Sounds like I will try Jalie out by the full bust measurement and go from there. I really like the idea of tracing between the sizes for the Kwik sew patterns. I hadn't thought of that, but so easy to do.
Member since 8/24/02
Date: 12/17/12 2:47 PM
By the way, the full bust size is also what you use for Burda. Bobbie Carr, the late Burda maven, always said, "Believe Burda," meaning, 'Don't try to outthink them when choosing your size; just exactly follow the instructions on their detailed measurement chart.'