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Some kind of kick pleat, godet, or something else?
Need suggestions please!
PeppermintPam
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Date: 12/20/12 4:24 PM

I'm taking Susan Kalje's couture dress class (through Craftsy), and am making a sheath dress with shoulder to hem princess seams. The pattern is knee length, but I am lengthening the dress to make it mid-calf length, (it falls straight from the hips to the hem) so it needs some kind of pleat or godet or something at the center back (there is a center back seam) for walking ease.

The fabric I'm using is a good quality wool crepe - which is something I've never worked with before, so I'm not sure what to do. Every straight skirt I own with a center back pleat always ends of splaying open after multiple wearings, and I definitely want my dress to continue looking nice for a long time - especially with how long it's going to take to make it. So I was thinking maybe a godet - but I'm not sure how that would look on this classic dress, or how it would look and hang in wool crepe.

This is going to be a longer version of the LBD (only in a dusty light navy), so I want it to be simple, classic, and understated, and I don't want anything too showy.

I even thought about doing a pleated insert, but not really sure how to even go about doing that to make it look right. And then what if it ends up looking horrible or way out of proportion?

Does anyone have any suggestions... Please?

pjrsews
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Date: 12/21/12 1:49 PM

In today's pattern reviews is McCall's 5523 skirt pattern with several different back treatments. I have not made this actual pattern since I have a TNT skirt pattern but I bought it for the reason you are talking about. I want walking ease in a long, straight skirt (36") without having to resort to slit/vent/pleat. I hope this helps.

pjrsews
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Date: 12/21/12 1:51 PM

P.S. My name is Pam, too.

PeppermintPam
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Date: 12/21/12 4:23 PM

Thanks Pam, this might just be the perfect solution. It's funny, I've looked at this skirt pattern many times - I even thought I might have it in my stash, but (sigh) it's not there. I'll have to pick it up.

For anyone who has worked with wool crepe, I was thinking about the pleated version, but I don't have much extra fabric to play with. Could someone tell me if wool crepe would hold a crease like linen does? If it won't, and I try one of the other versions, does it drape well enough to hang in soft folds? Or will it tend to stick out? Any other hints in working with wool crepe?

Thanks so much, Pam.

EleanorSews
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Date: 12/21/12 4:38 PM

The January THREADS has a great article on drafting a true kick pleat. When done properly, a kick pleat ought to hold...

I would recommend Views A & D for wool crepe. It's nicely drapey and would be quite pretty in either altho' I do prefer A.

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Pamela R
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Date: 12/21/12 8:54 PM

One of my favorite back pleats is a total cheat, and it never sags.
The lining has a slit in each side seam and then you apply a rectangle of the fashion fabric to the centre back lining under a centre back slit in the skirt. Another plus for this method is that it uses less fabric .
Good luck. I hope that this discription makes scents.
I also am a Pam

PeppermintPam
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In reply to EleanorSews <<


Date: 12/22/12 10:10 AM

Thanks so much for your suggestions. It sounds like the wool crepe would do better in softer folds than in pressed pleats - I appreciate your help. I agree, I like view A better than view D... thanks again.

PeppermintPam
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In reply to Pamela R <<


Date: 12/22/12 10:16 AM

I think I understand what you're describing. The lining side seams (or in my case the back princess seams) are left unsewn for the last 11" or 12" (for a 10" long center back faux pleat). Then cut a rectangle of fashion fabric that is the width of the lining (from princess seam to princess seam) in back, and is an inch or so higher than the center back slit (plus a hem allowance). Then make your hem in the fashion fabric rectangle, and sew that to the wrong side of the lining fabric. This way the lining fabric (with the rectangle of fashion fabric attached is hanging free at the princess seams and at the hem.

Is this right, or did I totally misunderstand?

Pamela R
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In reply to PeppermintPam <<


Date: 12/22/12 2:23 PM

Yes Pam I couldn't have said it better myself.
I love this method because there are no pleats to come unpressed, and there is less strain all over. By the way, you do not even have to make the fashion fabric as wide as the whole back piece (between princess seams) if you are short on fabric.
I would attach the fashion fabric rectangle to the lining openings or just the lining, like a patch , to keep it in control.
Hope I did not add any confusion.

Enjoy
Pam
-- Edited on 12/22/12 2:25 PM --

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