ladybegood

 Intermediate Member since 5/19/03 Posts: 1142 |
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Date: 12/25/12 5:09 PM This is only the second knit garment that I have made, and the first with a proper sleeve. What's up with the fold/wrinkle at the armpit?

I tried pinching it out like a dart and rotating it to the side seam, but the fold stayed exactly the same. I also made this top in a much stretchier fabric and had the same problem.
Thanks for any help you can give! ------ "Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative! |
Twinset
  
 Intermediate QC CANADA Member since 9/15/07 Posts: 450 |
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 1 member likes this. Date: 12/25/12 5:43 PM I have the same problem. Front armhole too long? This happens to me when the cap sleeve is symetrical (same length in the back and in the front) (Jalie t-shirt or hoodie, for example). ------ http://www.jazz-couture.blogspot.com/
Before joining PR: 1 sewing machine
Since joining PR: 6 sewing machines, kilometers of stash and tons of fun
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simplystitches
Intermediate NY USA Member since 2/12/06 Posts: 783 |
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 1 member likes this. Date: 12/25/12 11:17 PM I've had that when the armscye has been too high cut for my body. I could actually feel the seam up into the armpit and starting to creep down the arm. You've got somewhat square shoulders and it's a possibility.
If the ss's are basted you could try sewing the underarm a bit deeper. Start at the lower notches, front and back, and try basting the sleeve 1/4-1/2" deeper. Baste the ss's again and see if that helps. I wouldn't trim the seams until you've basted the ss's and see if it works.
Debbie |
ladybegood

 Intermediate Member since 5/19/03 Posts: 1142 |
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In reply to simplystitches <<
Date: 12/25/12 11:23 PM Thanks Debbie. Yes, everything is basted, so I'll try lowering the underarm seams. They don't feel too high, but I didn't lower them tho I usually do. ------ "Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative! |
Lisa p
 Advanced Beginner UNITED KINGDOM Member since 12/6/08 Posts: 268 |
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 1 member likes this. Date: 12/26/12 5:13 AM This is exactly what I get when I made the Sewaholic renfrew top . I knew it wasn't a FBA issue as I'd already done one. I compared to other patterns and the armhole was a good inch higher. ------ I'm no longer blogging but here's my Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/58685892@N06/sets/72157632914132536/with/8539670800/ |
Quickie
Advanced NETHERLANDS Member since 10/8/10 Posts: 229 |
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Date: 12/26/12 2:37 PM Most T-shirts of wstretching material are drafted without darts. The armskye has more room than in the case of a shirt in woven material. In my books I am warned that a style like that does not work for more voliminious cupizes -- Edited on 12/30/12 2:51 PM -- |
Quickie
Advanced NETHERLANDS Member since 10/8/10 Posts: 229 |
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Date: 12/30/12 2:54 PM Today I posted a review on a muslin for jalie 2682.
In that pictures you can see that the armscye is too high. That's very different from what you have |
m/m
 Intermediate NJ USA Member since 4/4/05 Posts: 324 |
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In reply to ladybegood <<
Date: 12/30/12 4:54 PM I think the problem is in the fit over the bust, not in the depth of the armhole.
I think you do need a small dart from the armhole toward the bust point. Usually with knits even though you're slightly changing the length of the armhole seam the sleeve still will fit into the opening fine. You don't need to rotate the dart out of the armhole to the side seam. Marcy Tilton recommends an easy alteration for this (I just automatically do this to all knit top patterns and it works like a charm for me). Take a look at the very end of this page from Marcy Tilton's website: http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=194&cp=7
With this top an alternative or possibly additional change would be to make the side seams at bust level slightly narrower to give you more fabric around the bust. Basically you end up with a slight additional bulge in the front piece of the top.
Basically the fine horizontal pull lines front and center indicate that the top is a tad too snug in the bust and the deeper folds at the armhole indicate that you'd do better with a dart to take the excess fabric out there. |
ryan's mom
 
PA USA Member since 11/30/04 Posts: 4390 |
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Date: 12/30/12 6:05 PM lbg, have you thought about simply converting the same top to an armhole princess-seamed one, tweaking the armhole in fabric, then cutting out the sleeve to match whatever pinching out you have done?
IMO, armhole princess seams were made for thin bodies with full busts among other figures too. ------ Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing (Janome Memory Craft 3000 and Kenmore 158 Series machine), Serger (Babylock Imagine), Embroidery (Janome 300E)
If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.
My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com |
Quickie
Advanced NETHERLANDS Member since 10/8/10 Posts: 229 |
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Date: 12/31/12 7:12 AM Oh m/m what a clever idea. I'll certainly give it a try |